Long-wearing cosmetic compositions with improved shine

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic composition comprising (A) a first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase comprising (i) one or more lipidic components that are mutually compatible with one another when liquefied; (ii) at least one adhesive film-forming agent; and (iii) at least one lipophilic structuring agent in an amount effective to retain a second fatty phase entrapped in said cosmetic composition prior to application on mammalian keratinous tissue; and (B) a second fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile lipidic component wherein said second fatty phase (B) is incompatible with said first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase (A) and said second fatty phase (B) is entrapped in said composition where upon application of said composition to mammalian keratinous tissue, said second fatty phase (B) readily separates from said composition to form a barrier layer over said first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase (A) and wherein said composition is substantially free of surfactants such that separation of said second fatty phase (B) from said composition is not prevented following application of said composition.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional application Ser.No. 60/567,262 (Case 9622P), filed on Apr. 30, 2004.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to long-wearing cosmetic compositions withimproved gloss suitable for application to mammalian keratinous tissueincluding the skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails comprising afirst structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase and a secondfatty phase, wherein the second fatty phase is incompatible with thefirst structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase and the secondfatty phase is entrapped in the composition where upon application ofthe composition to mammalian keratinous tissue, the second fatty phasereadily separates from the composition to form a barrier layer over thefirst structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase and wherein thecomposition is substantially free of surfactants such that separation ofthe second fatty phase from the composition is not prevented followingapplication of the composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic and other personal care products intended for use on human skin(such as foundation, concealer, eyeshadow, sunscreen and/or tanningproducts), lips (such as lipstick, lipcolor, lipliner, and lipgloss),and hair (such as mascara) often contain at least one fatty phasecomprised of one or more substances that are oily, fatty, or waxy innature. Depending on the intended product use, this fatty phase isprimarily employed to deliver desirable features such as emolliency,spreadability, gloss, conditioning, and/or protective properties to theskin, lips, hair, or nails. Moreover, this fatty phase typically servesas a convenient and effective medium for dispersing and/or solubilizingother desirable ingredients into these compositions. Other desirableingredients, for example, might include pigments, dyes, and/orparticulate fillers to produce color or light scattering and/orreflecting effects desirable both in the product and on the skin, lips,hair and/or nails. These color and/or optical effects are typicallydesirable both in the product and on the skin, lips, hair and/or nailssince they are capable of enhancing the visual attractiveness and appealof the cosmetic product to the consumer. After product has been appliedon the skin, lips, hair, and/or nails, these color and/or opticaleffects are highly desired for their ability to cover or reduce theappearance of fine lines/wrinkles or skin imperfections, and/or providea more uniform skin tone, and/or provide color to accentuate theappearance of a consumer's face, lips, eyes, eyelashes, and/or nails.Additional desirable ingredients such as fragrance, vitamins,sunscreening agents, and other cosmetic or dermatological active agentsmight also be dispersed and/or solubilized into these compositions fortheir desired effects. Such products may be comprised of a fatty phaseabsent of water (typically referred to as anhydrous), or may becomprised of a fatty phase in combination with an aqueous phase to forma dispersion or emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W)type. Such products take on various forms, such as solids or sticks,gels, pastes, creams, and lotions.

A common disadvantage often experienced by consumers using such productsis the inability to sustain an initial or freshly applied look afterapplication. Consumers would prefer to maintain the initial or freshlyapplied look for several hours or more (or at least experience minimallosses during such time) without the inconvenience of having to reapplyproduct in order to restore or refresh the desired appearance.Unfortunately, the applied film of product very often remains tooliquid-like or mobile, and therefore has the tendency to transfer easilyfrom the skin, lips, and/or hair onto objects with which it is broughtinto contact, such as glassware, cups, fabrics, or other skin. Suchcontact with various objects is common and difficult to avoid in manydaily activities, such as eating and drinking, as well as frominadvertent touching or rubbing of the skin, lips, and/or hair where aproduct film has been previously applied. Moreover, the mobility of theapplied film often allows the product to migrate and/or concentrateeasily into the fine lines, wrinkles, folds, and/or pores of the skinand/or lips, resulting in an undesirable non-uniform appearance.

In the case of anhydrous compositions (i.e., those lacking an aqueousphase), there have been a number of previous efforts disclosed thatassertedly provide cosmetic products having long-lasting ortransfer-resistant properties. Many of these efforts have relied oninclusion of high levels or proportions of volatile fatty phase liquidingredients, such as volatile silicones or hydrocarbons, in thecomposition. Volatile fatty phase ingredients allow initial applicationor spreading but then evaporate from the product after applicationleaving a less mobile or more solid-like film. It has been common insuch compositions to also depend on one or more hydrophobic resins, suchas silicone resins, and/or high levels of one or more high melting pointwax ingredients to deposit a rigid or solid-like film that is resistantto water. The resin and/or wax impart greater permanence andwater-resistance to the applied film under such conditions asperspiration/sweating, washing, drinking, and swimming. However, thefilms obtained after application of these compositions and evaporationof the volatile fatty ingredients, typically have the disadvantage ofbeing too dry in feel and/or appearance (i.e., very matte, not veryglossy).

In the case of W/O and O/W dispersion or emulsion compositions, previousefforts also have been disclosed in the art that assertedly providecosmetic products having long-lasting or transfer-resistant properties.Some of these efforts have been directed to the inclusion ofwater-soluble film-formers or gelling agents into the aqueous phase todeliver a harder or more rigid film following application. However, thefilms obtained after application of these compositions and evaporationof the water often have the disadvantage of being brittle or stiff,lacking the degree of flexibility and comfort most desired for movementof the skin, lips, and/or hair. Furthermore, the water-soluble nature ofsuch film-formers or gelling agents has the additional disadvantage ofmaking the applied film of product less water-resistant or waterproof,such that the applied film of product is too easily rubbed off orremoved under such conditions as perspiration/sweating, washing,drinking, and swimming.

Other efforts have been directed to the inclusion of latexes or aqueousdispersions of film-forming polymer into the aqueous phase of O/W andW/O compositions. These film-forming polymer types producewater-resistant/waterproof films, and often have good flexibility onskin, lips, and/or hair. Some previous efforts, however, have requiredhigh levels of volatile organic compounds (e.g., lower alcohols) and/orplasticizing agents in the aqueous dispersion of polymer to achievetheir intended film-formation effects. Such ingredients often have thedisadvantage of being drying and/or irritating and/or damaging to theskin, lips, hair, and/or nails. Moreover, high levels of theseingredients typically impart offensive odors and/or taste to products,and cause the product to be flammable. Another limitation observed inprevious efforts to effectively include these film-forming polymers intocosmetic compositions containing a fatty phase has been the requirementof one or more surfactants/emulsifying agents. Depending on the typeand/or usage level of emulsifying agents, they can have the disadvantageof interfering with the adhesion or film-forming properties of thefilm-forming polymer, and/or producing an irritation or sensitizationresponse in the skin, lips, or eyes. A further limitation encounteredwith the use of at least some aqueous dispersions of film-formingpolymers is a susceptibility to rapid coagulation or polymerdestabilization upon heating or addition to a heated fatty phase(typically above 40° C.).

More recently, efforts have been disclosed for improving long-wearing ortransfer-resistant benefits by providing two-step cosmetic systems orkits. In the case of such systems or kits, a first cosmetic compositionis applied to mammalian keratinous tissue to deliver along-wearing/transfer-resistant film or layer that is allowed to setand/or dry, followed by application of a different second cosmeticcomposition over the first cosmetic composition. The second cosmeticcomposition is typically specified to be sufficiently different from thefirst cosmetic composition in chemical constituents or properties so asto prevent the long-wearing/transfer-resistant layer from beingsolubilized or compromised significantly. While the first cosmeticcomposition is long-wearing/transfer-resistant, it typically isdeficient in appearance (i.e., has dull/matte finish) and/or feel (i.e.,has dry, or rough/non-slippery feel). The purpose of the second cosmeticcomposition, therefore, is to contribute to the appearance (e.g.,shine/gloss) and/or feel (e.g., lubricity) of the total applied system.These two-step systems or kits, however, have the disadvantage of beingmore complex and less convenient to use than a singlelong-wearing/transfer-resistant cosmetic composition. These systems orkits often have the further disadvantage of not retaining or sustaininga shiny/glossy appearance for an extended period of time.

Having thoughtfully considered the limitations and disadvantagesencountered with previous efforts to provide long-lasting and/ortransfer-resistant cosmetic compositions, and desiring especially toimprove the maintenance of a lubricious/slippery and/or shiny/glossyappearance over time, it has now been discovered an improved novellong-wearing cosmetic compositions with improved gloss that overcome oneor more of these limitations and disadvantages.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise:

(A) a first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase comprising:

i) one or more lipidic components that are mutually compatible with oneanother when liquefied;

ii) at least one adhesive film-forming agent; and

iii) at least one lipophilic structuring agent in an amount effective toretain a second fatty phase entrapped in said cosmetic composition priorto application on mammalian keratinous tissue; and

(B) a second fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile lipidiccomponent; wherein said second fatty phase (B) is incompatible with saidfirst structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase (A) and saidsecond fatty phase (B) is entrapped in said composition where uponapplication of said composition to mammalian keratinous tissue, saidsecond fatty phase (B) readily separates from said composition to form abarrier layer over said first structured and adhesive film-forming fattyphase (A) and wherein said composition is substantially free ofsurfactants such that separation of said second fatty phase (B) fromsaid composition is not prevented following application of saidcomposition.

Methods of the present invention include, but are not limited to:

A method of providing long-lasting color and long-lasting shinesimultaneously to mammalian keratinous tissue comprising the step ofapplying to said mammalian keratinous tissue a feel and shine enhancingbarrier layer over a long-lasting color layer from a single cosmeticcomposition comprising:

(A) a first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase comprising:

i. one or more lipidic components that are mutually compatible with oneanother when liquefied;

ii. at least one adhesive film-forming agent; and

iii. at least one lipophilic structuring agent in an amount effective toretain a second fatty phase entrapped in said cosmetic composition priorto application on mammalian keratinous tissue;

(B) a second fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile lipidiccomponent wherein said second fatty phase (B) is incompatible with saidfirst structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase (A) and saidsecond fatty phase (B) is entrapped in said composition where uponapplication of said composition to mammalian keratinous tissue, saidsecond fatty phase (B) readily separates from said composition to form abarrier layer over said first structured and adhesive film-forming fattyphase (A) and wherein said composition is substantially free ofsurfactants such that separation of said second fatty phase (B) fromsaid composition is not prevented following application of saidcomposition; and

(C) at least one coloring agent.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

While the specification concludes with the claims particularly pointingand distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the presentinvention will be better understood from the following description.

As used herein, “comprising” means that other steps and ingredients canbe added. This term encompasses the terms “consisting of” and“consisting essentially of” . The phrase “consisting essentially of”means that the composition may include additional ingredients, but onlyif the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic andnovel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods.

All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of thetopical compositions of the present invention and all measurements madeare at 25° C., unless otherwise specified. All such weights as theypertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and,therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be includedin commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

As used herein, the term “first phase” may be used as a substituteexpression in referring to the “first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase” of the present invention.

As used herein, the term “second phase” may be used as a substituteexpression in referring to the “second fatty phase” of the presentinvention.

As used herein, the term “mammalian keratinous tissue” refers to theskin, lips, hair (including eyelashes and eyebrows), and nails ofmammalian subjects, especially humans.

As used herein, the term “non-volatile lipidic component” refers to anylipidic component that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) andatmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) having a vapor pressure less than about5 mm Hg, preferably less than about 2 mm Hg, more preferably less thanabout 1 mm Hg, most preferably less than about 0 mm Hg.

By “incompatible” it is meant that the second phase is substantially orcompletely insoluble with the first phase, such that the second phasehas little to no affinity or solubility with the first phase, andremains distinguishable from the first phase.

The term “surfactants” or “emulsifying agents,” as used herein, refersto any surface-active agent (commonly referred to as surfactant) thathas as its primary function the reduction of interfacial tension betweentwo immiscible liquids to enable formation and stabilization of anemulsion. A surfactant generally consists of a molecule having ahydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) part thatmigrates to and orients at the interface between immiscible liquids. Forthe purposes of this definition, such agents are considered distinct andseparate from so-called auxiliary emulsifiers, i.e., “EmulsionStabilizers” and “Viscosity-Increasing Agents” as defined in the CTFAInternational Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition, The Cosmetic,Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., 2004.

As used herein, “shine” refers to an ability to produce, or having theproperty of, brightness, luster, or radiance from the reflection oflight at a surface. “Shine” encompasses the condition ranging from asubtle luster or sheen to a pronounced glistening or glossy, wet-likeappearance.

(A) First Structured and Adhesive Film-Forming Fatty Phase

Compositions of the present invention comprise a first structured andadhesive film-forming fatty phase comprised of one or more mutuallycompatible lipidic components, at least one adhesive film-forming agentand at least one lipophilic structuring agent in an amount effective toretain a second fatty phase entrapped within the composition prior toapplication on mammalian keratinous tissue.

Compositions of the present invention comprise a first structured andadhesive film-forming fatty phase (i.e., first phase) present in anamount from at least about 30%, preferably from at least about 40%, morepreferably from at least about 45%, even more preferably from at leastabout 50% and no more than about 95%, preferably no more than about 85%,more preferably no more than about 75%, even more preferably no morethan about 65%, by weight of the total composition.

The primary purpose of the first structured and adhesive film-formingfatty phase in compositions of the present invention is to deliver asupple and/or glossy fatty phase with improved durability andlong-wearing properties upon application to mammalian keratinous tissue.In preferred embodiments, this first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase also comprises one or more coloring agents soas to achieve long-lasting color and/or opacity upon application tomammalian keratinous tissue.

(i) Lipidic Components

The first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase is comprisedof one or more lipidic components that are mutually compatible with oneanother when liquefied.

The term “lipidic component” refers to any lipophilic solvent, oil, fat,wax, fatty ester, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, silicone, lanolin orlanolin derivative, and any lipophilic polymeric or resinous materialhaving predominately lipid-like properties that is insoluble orimmiscible with water. Such materials may be derived from sources suchas mineral, marine, animal, plant, and/or synthetic, and can be selectedfrom polar and non-polar, volatile and non-volatile properties, andmixtures thereof, unless otherwise specified or limited in thedescription. This “lipidic component” may be in liquid state at roomtemperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).Alternatively, it may be in paste, semi-solid or solid state (at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure), and be capable of transforming toliquid state when heated above its melting point temperature (typicallyless than 100° C.) for the purpose of combining with other ingredientsof the present invention.

As used herein, “mutually compatible with one another when liquefied” isdefined as the condition wherein the liquefied components are solubleand miscible with one another, such that when blended together, theycollectively form a single, homogeneous mixture that does not stratifyor separate into distinct (discrete) phases or layers upon standing overtime.

Lipidic components included in the first phase provide the capability toimpart a variety of desirable attributes in such areas as application,feel, appearance, and conditioning attributes when applied to skin,lips, hair, and/or nails. Depending on the intended product use, theseattributes may include, but are not necessarily limited to, ease ofspreading, lubricity, emolliency, moisturization, and gloss. In cosmeticcompositions lacking at least one lipidic component, such attributesgenerally cannot be achieved either at all or as effectively since waterand/or many water-compatible ingredients are generally lacking in thechemical and/or physical properties necessary to impart such attributesto the product. Additionally, proper selection of the lipidic componentfor this phase also enables a variety of desired final product forms tobe achieved, such as a liquid, cream, paste, or solid. The lipidiccomponent also typically serves as a convenient and effective medium fordispersing and/or solubilizing other desirable optional ingredients thatare compatible with the lipidic component, such as lipophilicmoisturizers, vitamins, skin-active agents, skin care ingredients,coloring agents, thickeners, sunscreens, fragrances, flavors,preservatives and the like.

Lipidic components of the first structured and adhesive film-formingfatty phase may comprise from at least about 10%, preferably from atleast about 15%, more preferably from at least about 20%, even morepreferably from at least about 25% and no more than about 98.5%,preferably no more than about 97%, more preferably no more than about95%, even more preferably no more than about 90%, by weight of the firststructured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase.

Lipidic components of the first phase may exist in a liquid state at orabout room temperature (25° C.). Such materials may be derived fromsources such as mineral, marine, animal, plant, and/or synthetic and canbe selected from polar and non-polar, volatile and non-volatileproperties and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term “volatilelipophilic liquid” refers to any lipophilic (or lipid-like) materialthat is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure(760 mm Hg) having a measurable vapor pressure, greater than about 0 mmHg, preferably greater than about 1 mm Hg, more preferably greater thanabout 2 mm Hg, most preferably greater than about 5 mm Hg.

In the present invention, volatile lipophilic liquids may be selected inparticular to enhance the application and setting properties of anapplied film on the skin, lips, hair, and/or nails. However, as wasmentioned previously, compositions utilizing high levels of volatileoils/liquids typically produce films that feel dry and/or tight to theconsumer, and appear dry (matte/dull) to the consumer. In certainproduct uses, most especially in the case of lipcolor and/or lipgloss,this is not particularly desirable or preferred. Therefore, depending onthe intended product attributes or use sought, it may be preferable tolimit use of volatile lipophilic liquids to be less than about 50% byweight of the total lipidic component of the first phase, preferablyless than about 30% by weight of the total lipidic component of thefirst phase, more preferably less than about 20% by weight of the totallipidic component of the first phase, even more preferably less thanabout 10% by weight of the total lipidic component of the first phase,most preferably 0% by weight of the total lipidic component of the firstphase.

Volatile lipophilic liquids may be selected from groups consisting ofvolatile hydrocarbon liquids, volatile silicone liquids, volatilefluorinated liquids, and mixtures thereof. These liquids may be selectedfrom saturated and unsaturated, straight and branched chain, aliphatic,cycloaliphatic, and aromatic structures, and combinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of volatile hydrocarbon liquids include C8-C16isoalkanes (or isoparaffins) and branched C8-C16 esters, such asisododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, isohexyl neopentanoate, andmixtures thereof.

Examples of volatile silicone liquids include, but are not limited to,volatile cyclic silicone liquids, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane(D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane(D6), and combinations thereof; and volatile linear silicone liquids,such as octamethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyltrisiloxane,heptamethyl-octyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl-hexyltrisiloxane, and mixturesthereof.

Examples of volatile fluorinated liquids include, but are not limitedto, nonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoromethylcyclopentane.

In the present invention, non-volatile lipophilic liquids may beselected in particular to enhance the lubricity, conditioning, andgloss/shine properties of an applied film on the skin, lips, hair,and/or nails. As used herein, the term “non-volatile lipophilic liquid”refers to any lipophilic (or lipid-like) material that is liquid at roomtemperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) having a vaporpressure less than about 5 mm Hg, preferably less than about 2 mm Hg,more preferably less than about 1 mm Hg, most preferably less than about0 mm Hg. In contrast to the aforementioned volatile oils/liquids,compositions utilizing high levels of non-volatile oils/liquidstypically produce films that feel moist and/or soft and supple to theconsumer, and appear wet or shiny/glossy to the consumer. In certainproduct uses, most especially in the case of lipcolor and/or lipgloss,this is particularly desirable or preferred. Therefore, depending on theintended product attributes or use sought, it may be preferable tomaximize use of non-volatile lipophilic liquids to be more than about50% by weight of the total lipidic component of the first phase,preferably more than about 70% by weight of the total lipidic componentof the first phase, more preferably more than about 80% by weight of thetotal lipidic component of the first phase, even more preferably morethan about 90% by weight of the total lipidic component of the firstphase, most preferably 100% by weight of the total lipidic component ofthe first phase.

The total lipidic component of the first phase may be comprised of atleast about 10% by weight, preferably at least about 30% by weight, morepreferably at least about 60% by weight, even more preferably at leastabout 80% by weight, most preferably 100% by weight of one or morenon-volatile lipophilic liquids having a refractive index (at 20° C.) ofat least about 1.450, preferably at least about 1.460, more preferablyat least about 1.470, even more preferably at least about 1.480, mostpreferably at least about 1.490.

As used herein, the “refractive index” of a substance is defined as theratio of the velocity of light in air to the velocity of light in thesubstance. Typically, the values in the literature for refractive indexare for the D line of sodium (doublet at 589.0 nm and 589.6 nm). TheAbbe refractometer, or other refractometers of equal or greateraccuracy, may be employed to measure the refractive index.

Non-volatile lipophilic liquids may be selected from groups consistingof non-volatile hydrocarbon liquids, non-volatile silicone liquids,non-volatile fluorinated liquids, and mixtures thereof. These liquidsmay be selected from saturated and unsaturated, straight and branchedchain, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, and aromatic structures, andcombinations thereof.

Non-limiting examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon liquids include thoseof animal origin, such as lanolin oil; those of plant/vegetable origin,such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids including triglycerides ofheptanoic acid, triglycerides of octanoic acid, wheatgerm oil, corn oil,sunflower oil, shea butter oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamiaoil, apricot oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil,poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, avocado oil, hazelnutoil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, milletoil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil,candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, and triglycerides ofcaprylic/capric acids; those of mineral and synthetic origin, such asliquid petrolatum, polydecenes, and hydrogenatedpolybutenes/polyisobutenes; synthetic esters and ethers, such as oils ofthe formula R₁COOR₂ wherein R₁ is selected from residues of higher fattyacids comprising from 6 to 29 carbon atoms and R₂ is selected fromhydrocarbon chains comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such ascetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butylstearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate,2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate,2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, and polyol esters,such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate,diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and pentaerythritol esters; liquidfatty alcohols comprising at least one carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbonatoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fattyacids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid,oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid; andmixtures thereof.

Examples of non-volatile silicone liquids include, but are not limitedto, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) comprising groups selected from alkyl,alkoxy, and phenyl groups that are pendant and/or at the end of thesilicone chain and containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates,trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of non-volatile fluorinated liquids include, but are notlimited to, fluorinated silicones, such as perfluorononyl dimethicones.

In order to prepare products that are more occlusive, viscous, and/orstructured (including semi-solid and solid product forms), one or moreof the lipidic components may comprise a lipidic solid forming materialin an amount sufficient to thicken and/or solidify the composition intoa desired product form. These lipidic solid formers may be used in thepresent invention provided they are used at levels that do notsignificantly interfere with the adhesive film-forming properties of theadhesive film-forming agent included in the first structured andadhesive film-forming fatty phase. Said solid formers are selected fromthe group consisting of solid polyol fatty acid polyesters, waxes, solidoils, and mixtures thereof.

The solid polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in the firstphase of the present invention include those solid polyol fatty acidpolyester materials described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,555,097 issued to Rabeet al., on Apr. 29, 2003.

Waxes are defined as organic mixtures or compounds of high molecularweight, solid at room temperature (25° C.) and generally similar incomposition to fats and oils except that they contain no glycerides.Included are high molecular weight hydrocarbons, fatty acids, fatty acidesters, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Waxes useful in thepresent invention are selected from those generally known in the art.

Suitable high molecular weight fatty acids have from about 10 to about40 carbon atoms. Examples include, but are not limited to,12-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxylauric acid, 16-hydroxyhexadecanoicacid, behenic acid, stearic acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, andmixtures thereof. Further examples of some suitable fatty acids aredescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,429,816 issued to Hofrichter et al., onJul. 4, 1995; and U.S. Pat. No. 5,552,136 issued to Motley on Sep. 3,1996.

Suitable high molecular weight fatty acid esters include ester waxes,monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.Non-limiting examples of suitable ester waxes include stearyl stearate,stearyl behenate, palmityl stearate, cetearyl behenate, and behenylbehenate. Specific examples of these include CRODAMOL SS from Croda andthe KESTER WAXES from Koster Keunen.

Suitable high molecular weight fatty alcohols include monohydricalcohols having from about 20 to about 40 carbon atoms, and do notperform as primary emulsifiers, such as the PERFORMACOLS® from New PhaseTechnologies.

Other waxes useful in the fatty phase of the present invention areselected from the group consisting of animal waxes, vegetable waxes,mineral waxes, various fractions of natural waxes, synthetic waxes,petroleum waxes, ethylenic polymers, hydrocarbon types such asFischer-Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof wherein thewaxes have a melting point greater than about 30° C. The waxes mostuseful herein have melting points from about 30° C. to about 115° C.

Waxes suitable for use include, but are not limited to, beeswax, lanolinwax, shellac wax (animal waxes); carnauba, candelilla, bayberry(vegetable waxes); ozokerite, ceresin (mineral waxes); paraffin,microcrystalline waxes (petroleum waxes); polyethylene (ethylenicpolymers) and polyethylene homopolymers (Fischer-Tropsch waxes); C30-45alkyl methicones/dimethicones from Dow Coming and General Electric,KP-560P series of acrylic silicone copolymers from Shin-Etsu Silicones(silicone waxes); and mixtures thereof.

Other waxes useful in the present invention are selected from the groupconsisting of jojoba esters such as the FLORAESTERS® sold by FloratechAmericas, PERFORMALENE™ polyethylenes and PERFORMA V™ synthetic polymerssold by New Phase Technologies, alkylated polyvinylpyrrolidines soldunder tradename GANEX® from International Specialty Products,SYNCROWAXES® sold by Croda, fatty alcohols from C22 to C50, and mixturesthereof. Synthetic waxes include those disclosed in Warth, Chemistry andTechnology of Waxes, Part 2, 1956, Reinhold Publishing. The waxes usefulherein are selected from the C₈ to C₅₀ hydrocarbon waxes. Such waxesinclude long chained polymers of ethylene oxide combined with a dihydricalcohol, namely polyoxyethylene glycol. Such waxes include CARBOWAX™available from Carbide and Carbon Chemicals Company. Other syntheticwaxes include long-chained polymers of ethylene with OH or other stoplength grouping at end of chain. Such waxes include the Fischer-Tropschwaxes as disclosed in the text disclosed above at pages 465-469 andinclude ROSSWAX™, available from Ross company and PT-0602 available fromAstor Wax Company.

Solid oils useful herein are those that have a melting point from aboveabout 30° C., preferably above about 37° C. and no more than below about250° C., preferably no more than below about 100° C., even morepreferably no more than below about 80° C. As used herein, the term“solid oils” refers to any oil or oil-like material that is solid orsemi-solid at temperatures of from about 20° C. to about 25° C., and hasa solubility in water of generally less than about 1% by weight at 25°C. Examples of suitable solid oils include, but are not limited to,petrolatum, highly branched hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acidesters, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polypropyleneglycols, alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, fatty acids having from about 10 toabout 40 carbon atoms, alkyl amides of di- and/or tri-basic carboxylicacids, n-acyl amino acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Solid oilsuseful in the fatty phase of the present invention are further describedin U.S. Pat. No. 4,919,934, to Deckner et al., issued Apr. 24, 1990.

Suitable highly branched hydrocarbons for use herein include hydrocarboncompounds having from about 17 to about 40 carbon atoms. Non-limitingexamples of these hydrocarbon compounds include squalane, cholesterol,lanolin, docosane (i.e., a C22 hydrocarbon), and isoparaffins.

Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils that are solid orsemi-solid at temperatures from about 20° C. to about 25° C. are alsouseful herein. Examples of suitable vegetable oils and hydrogenatedvegetable oils include, but are not limited to, babassu oil, cocoabutter, coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, hydrogenated saffloweroil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedcottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil,hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybeanoil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenatedrice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil,hydrogenated macadamia oil, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

Suitable polypropylene glycols for use herein include C4-C16 alkylethers of polypropylene glycols, and C1-C16 carboxylic acid esters ofpolypropylene glycols. Non-limiting examples of these materials includePPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17,PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30, PPG-34, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable alkyl amides of di- and/or tri-basic carboxylic acids for useherein include disubstituted or branched monoamides, monosubstituted orbranched diamides, triamides, and mixtures thereof. Some specificexamples of alkyl amides of di- and tri-basic carboxylic acids include,but are not limited to, alkyl amides of citric acid, tricarballylicacid, aconitic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, and itaconic acid such as1,2,3-propane tributylamide, 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propane tributylamide,1-propene-1,2,3-trioctylamide, N,N′,N″-tri(methyldecylamide)amine,2-dodecyl-N,N′-dibutylsuccinamide, and mixtures thereof. Other suitableamides include the n-acylamino acid derivatives described in U.S. Pat.No. 5,429,816, issued to Hofrichter et al., on Jul. 4, 1995.

(ii) Adhesive Film-Forming Agent

The first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase is comprisedof at least one adhesive film-forming agent.

As used herein, “adhesive film-forming agent” refers to any polymeric orresinous material or mixtures thereof capable of forming a solid filmand having adhesive qualities upon subsequent treatment (i.e., chemicaland/or energy-induced transformations) and/or elimination of the liquidcomponent (i.e., liquid evaporation and/or absorption) from thepolymeric or resinous material or mixtures. The adhesive film-formingagent may be one material or an aggregate of materials dissolved ordispersed within the first structured and adhesive film-forming fattyphase. Alternatively, the adhesive film-forming agent may be onematerial or an aggregate of materials that form a distinct polymeric orresinous “phase” distinguishable within the first structured andadhesive film-forming fatty phase. If such adhesive film-forming agentis considered a polymeric or resinous phase, such phase can bedistinguished from the second fatty phase of the present invention thatis entrapped within the composition of the present invention. Polymericor resinous materials form solid films through one or moretransformation processes, including, but not necessarily limited to,particle coalescence, fusion, sintering, polymer chainentanglement/interdiffusion, and/or chemical cross-linking reaction.Such transformation processes may occur in response to chemical stimuli,including, but not necessarily limited to, pH changes, oxidationreactions, and hydration. Such transformation processes may also occurin response to energetic stimuli, including, but not necessarily limitedto, heat and ultraviolet (UVA/UVB) energy. Alternatively, thetransformation processes may occur in response to evaporation and/orabsorption of liquid component from the polymeric or resinous material.

Adhesive film-forming agents of the first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase comprise from at least about 1%, preferablyfrom at least about 3%, more preferably from at least about 5%, evenmore preferably from at least about 7% and no more than about 60%,preferably no more than about 50%, more preferably no more than about45%, even more preferably no more than about 35%, by weight of the firststructured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase.

The at least one adhesive film-forming agent may be lipophilic andoil-soluble (herein after referred to as Lipo-Soluble), lipophilic andoil-dispersible (herein after referred to as Lipo-Dipsersible),hydrophilic and water-soluble (herein after referred to asHydro-Soluble), or hydrophilic and water-dispersible (herein afterreferred to as Hydro-Dispersible). The term “oil-soluble” means that theadhesive film-forming agent is soluble or miscible in oils and lipidicliquids, and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporatedtherein. The term “oil-dispersible” means that the adhesive film-formingagent is dispersible in oils and lipidic liquids, and will form aninsoluble phase where the dispersed adhesive film-forming agent remainsstable and/or compatible when incorporated therein. The term“water-soluble” means that the adhesive film-forming agent is soluble ormiscible in water, and will form a single homogeneous phase whenincorporated therein. The term “water-dispersible” means that theadhesive film-forming agent is dispersible in water, and will form aninsoluble phase where the dispersed adhesive film-forming agent remainsstable and/or compatible when incorporated therein.

Any type of adhesive film-forming agent may be used so long as theyremain soluble or dispersible in, and compatible with, only the firststructured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase of the presentinvention. Adhesive film-forming agents may be derived from natural orsynthetic sources.

Adhesive film-forming agents of the present invention may be producedand/or used in a dry, particulate, or powdered form. Alternatively, theymay be produced and/or used in a pre-solubilized or solution form wherethe polymeric or resinous material is dissolved in one or more solvents.Alternatively, they may be produced and/or used in a stabilizeddispersion form where the polymeric or resinous material is dispersedand stabilized as particles in one or more liquids.

Specific adhesive film-forming agents are selected based on theparticular properties and requirements sought for the intended use. Suchproperties and requirements include, but are not limited to, filmflexibility or hardness, adhesiveness, toughness or durability, andresistance to water or other chemical insults. It is also possible, andmany times preferable, to take advantage of the more versatileproperties achievable in block copolymers (polymers comprised of two ormore distinct polymer block segments), graft copolymers (polymers havingpendant polymeric side chains grafted onto a homopolymer or copolymerbackbone) or heteropolymers (polymers comprised of two or more differentmonomers) instead of homopolymers. In block type copolymers, the typeand amount of “soft” and “hard” segments have a significant impact onperformance properties.

Moreover, it is possible in compositions of the present invention tocombine two or more different adhesive film-forming agents together toachieve benefits of blended or synergistic properties. Examples ofdifferent combinations include, but are not necessarily limited to,polyurethanes with polyacrylates; and polyurethanes with polyesters.

Without being limited by theory, adhesive film-forming agents used incompositions of the present invention may have linear, branched, orpartially cross-linked polymer chains, and may be selected from groupsconsisting of homopolymers, heteropolymers, copolymers and mixturesthereof. The polymers may be anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphotericin nature. Particularly preferred are the anionic and/or nonionicheteropolymers and/or copolymers.

Preferred adhesive film-forming agents of the present invention may beformed by chain-growth (free-radical) polymerization processes (socalled addition polymers), and/or step-growth polymerization processes(so called condensation polymers).

Among the chain-growth or free-radical class of polymers, the adhesivefilm-forming agent may be selected from the group consisting of acrylicpolymers and copolymers, vinyl polymers and copolymers, vinyl-acryliccopolymers, styrene-acrylic copolymers, silicone-acrylics, and mixturesthereof. Anionic free-radical polymers are particularly preferred. Vinyland/or acrylic polymers can result from monomers with ethylenicunsaturation having at least one acid group, and/or esters of acidicmonomers, and/or amides of acidic monomers. Particularly preferred amongthe monomers with ethylenic unsaturation having at least one acid groupare those selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid,and maleic acid. Preferable among the esters of acidic monomers arethose selected from (meth)acrylates, in particular, alkyl(meth)acrylates, aryl (meth)acrylates, and hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.Included among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, for example, are methylmethacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutylmethacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, and lauryl methacrylate.Included among the aryl (meth)acrylates, for example, are benzylacrylate and phenyl acrylate. Included among the hydroxyalkyl(meth)acrylates, for example, are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropylacrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.Preferable among the amides of acidic monomers are those selected from(meth)acrylamides, in particular, N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides. Includedamong the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, for example, are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, and N-t-octyl acrylamide.

Vinyl and/or acrylic polymers can also result from vinyl ester andstyrene monomers. These monomers can be polymerized with acidicmonomers, and/or esters of acidic monomers, and/or amides of acidicmonomers such as those discussed above. Preferable among the vinylesters are vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinylbenzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. The listing of monomers givenabove is not intended to be limiting and other monomers known to thoseskilled in the art of preparing these chain-growth polymers may beutilized.

Among the step-growth class of polymers, the adhesive film-formingagents may be selected from the group consisting of polyurethanes,polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, polyester-polyurethanes,polyether-polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidone-polyurethanes,acrylic-polyurethanes, silicone-polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides,polyesteramides, epoxy ester resins, and mixtures thereof. Among thepolyurethanes, the “soft” block segments are comprised of polyols thatare typically polyethers or polyesters that can range from low to highmolecular weight. The polyethers and polyesters may be linear and/orbranched aliphatic, and/or cycloaliphatic, and/or aromatic in nature.The “hard” block segments are comprised of the diisocyanates (that canbe aromatic, aliphatic, and/or cycloaliphatic), and chain extenderamines (that can be diamines or polyamines of aliphatic or aromaticnature). Preferred among these are the anionic and/or nonionic versionsof the polyurethanes and polyurethane hybrid copolymer classes listedabove. Particularly preferred are the polyether-polyurethanes andpolyester-polyurethanes.

Suitable adhesive film-forming agents also include natural gums andextracts selected from, but not limited to, the group consisting ofplant exudates, such as gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, and gumghatti; plant extracts, such as pectins; plant seed flours or extracts,such as locust bean gum, guar gum, psyllium seed gum, and quince seedgum; seaweed extracts, such as agar, alginates, and carrageenans; seedstarches, such as corn starch, wheat starch, rice starch, and sorghumstarch; tuber starches, such as tapioca starch and potato starch; animalextracts, such as gelatin and caseinates; and mixtures thereof.

Additional suitable adhesive film-forming agents include modified(semi-synthetic) gums and extracts selected from, but not limited to,the group consisting of cellulose derivatives, such as sodiumcarboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,methylcellulose, and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, as well asalkyl-modified cellulose derivatives, such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose; modified plant extracts, such as hydroxypropylguar; microbial or biosynthetic gums, such as xanthan gum, sclerotiumgum, gellan gum, dextran and its derivatives; modified starches andstarch derivatives, such as potato starch modified, corn starchmodified, hydroxypropyl starch, dextrin and its derivatives; modifiedanimal derivatives, such as chitin or chitosan, and their derivatives,collagen derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

Additional suitable adhesive film-forming agents include, but are notlimited to, organic silicone resins (e.g., trimethylsiloxysilicate suchas SR1000 from GE Silicones) and copolymers of organic silicone resins(e.g., diisostearyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate such as SF1318from GE Silicones); fluorinated silicone resins; acrylic and/or vinylbased polymers or copolymers, including silicone and/or fluorinatedversions (e.g., the “KP” series of silicone acrylates from Shin-EtsuSilicones, and 3M™ Silicones “Plus” Polymer VS70 and SA70);polyurethanes (e.g., the hydroxyester triglyceride derived Polyderm®series from Alzo International); polyesters (e.g., the Lexorez® seriesof polymeric polyesters from Inolex Chemical Company); and mixturesthereof.

Addition and Preparation of Adhesive Film-Forming Agent

Combination of at least one adhesive film-forming agent with at leastone lipidic component and at least one lipophilic structuring agent ofthe first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase may beachieved by any means known to those skilled in the art, such that thefilm-forming agent is uniformly dissolved and/or dispersed throughoutthe first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase. In somecases, it may be more efficient or effective to introduce the adhesivefilm-forming agent gradually over a period of time into one or more ofthe lipidic components or lipophilic structuring agents while under theinfluence of continuous mixing. Any suitable means of addition, mixing,or temperature conditions may be used to facilitate combination of thespecific ingredients and satisfy manufacturing needs, provided theconditions do not significantly disrupt adhesion or film-formingproperties of the adhesive film-forming agent.

In the particular case for Hydro-Soluble adhesive film-forming agents,they may be first solubilized in a liquid medium comprised of waterand/or hydrophilic materials (such as glycols and low chain-lengthalcohols), added as a solution form into one or more of the lipidiccomponents or lipophilic structuring agents while under the influence ofcontinuous mixing, and stabilized as an emulsified or dispersed phasewith the aid of one or more emulsifying agents. However, if one or moreemulsifying agents are used for stabilizing Hydro-Soluble adhesivefilm-forming agents as a dispersed or emulsified phase, such emulsifyingagents must not interfere with separation of the second fatty phase fromthe composition upon application of said composition to mammaliankeratinous tissue.

In the particular case for Hydro-Dispersible adhesive film-formingagents, such as those made into latexes or aqueous dispersions ofadhesive film-forming polymer particles, they may be first dispersed ina liquid medium comprised of water and/or hydrophilic materials (such asglycols and low chain-length alcohols), added as a stable dispersionform into one or more of the lipidic components or lipophilicstructuring agents while under the influence of continuous mixing, andstabilized as an emulsified or dispersed phase with the aid of one ormore emulsifying agents. However, if one or more emulsifying agents areused for stabilizing Hydro-Dispersible adhesive film-forming agents as adispersed or emulsified phase, such emulsifying agents must notinterfere with separation of the second fatty phase from the compositionupon application of said composition to mammalian keratinous tissue.

In particularly preferred embodiments, Hydro-Dispersible adhesivefilm-forming agents may be prepared as a Structured Aqueous PolymericAdhesive Phase, and subsequently combined with one or more of thelipidic components and/or lipophilic structuring agents according to thefurther description provided below.

(a) Structured Aqueous Polymeric Adhesive Phase

In compositions of the present invention, a structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase is comprised of (1) at least one aqueous dispersion ofadhesive film-forming polymer particles; and (2) at least onestructuring agent in an amount effective to viscoelastically thicken,but not solidify, the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase to becompatible when combined with one or more lipidic components of thefirst phase.

As used herein, “aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymerparticles” refers to polymer dispersed and suspended as particles in anaqueous phase or medium, these particles being capable of coalescingtogether to form an adhesive film on the skin, hair, or nails uponevaporation or absorption of the aqueous phase. Formation andstabilization of these polymer particle dispersions in an aqueous mediummay be achieved using means such as synthetic procedures characterizedas: (1) polymer synthesized in the presence of water (e.g., emulsionpolymerization); and (2) polymer synthesized in the bulk, or in solutionwith an organic solvent, and subsequently dispersed in water. Inpreferred embodiments, the aqueous phase or medium consists essentiallyof water, or a mixture of water and non-volatile water-misciblesolvents. Non-volatile water-miscible solvents may be included only tothe extent that they do not significantly disrupt the performance of theaqueous polymeric adhesive phase of the present invention. As usedherein, “non-volatile water-miscible solvents” refers to any non-aqueoussolvent capable of being mixed in water without separation, having aslower evaporation rate than water at room temperature and relativehumidity (25° C., R.H. 50%) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The term “structuring agent” as used herein refers to any naturally- orsynthetically-derived material that, when combined in an effectiveamount with an aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymerparticles, produces a viscoelastic thickening response that results in athixotropic or pseudoplastic structure. “Viscoelastic” refers to thecondition in which a material has a combination of viscous (liquid-like)and elastic (solid-like) properties, being neither completely viscousnor completely elastic in response to deformation stresses. The term“thixotropic” as used herein means the viscosity decreases when thestructure is subjected to increasing shear rate followed by atime-dependent partial or total recovery of the starting viscosity whenthe shear rate is decreased or removed. The term “pseudoplastic” as usedherein means the viscosity decreases when the structure is subjected toincreasing shear rate but a time-independent or instantaneous totalrecovery of the starting viscosity occurs when the shear rate isdecreased or removed. By means of capillary forces and/orphysicochemical interactions at the molecular level, the structuringagent is capable of readily absorbing, dissolving in, being wetted by,and/or otherwise interacting with the aqueous phase and polymerparticles of the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles toimpart a significant increase in viscosity and viscoelastic structure tothe structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase.

The term “but not solidify” as used herein means the structured aqueouspolymeric adhesive phase is not structured to the point of beingessentially rigid or solid. As used herein, being “essentially rigid orsolid” is defined from a dynamic oscillatory rheometry measurement inthe Linear Viscoelastic Region (more fully disclosed later in thedetailed description and test methods) as the condition wherein theElastic Modulus (G′) is greater than the Viscous Modulus (G″) for anyoscillation frequency less than or equal to 1 Hz.

By “compatible” it is meant that the structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase is capable of existing and performing as an adhesivephase in agreeable combination with the first phase and/or forming ahomogeneous composition wherein the structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase does not readily separate from the first phase afterbeing combined.

The term “thermally-tolerant” as used herein means having the ability towithstand exposure to temperature at least about 15° C. below and aboveroom temperature (25° C.) for brief (minutes to hours) and/or extended(hours to days) periods and still remain compatible and functioneffectively within the composition. Although the extent of thermaltolerance will be dependent upon such factors as the character andamounts of film-forming polymer and structuring agent, preferredcompositions of the present invention have demonstrated an ability towithstand exposure to temperatures as high as about 90° C., andtemperatures as low as about −5° C.

Compositions of the present invention may comprise a structured aqueouspolymeric adhesive phase wherein at least one aqueous dispersion ofadhesive film-forming polymer particles is combined with an effectiveamount of at least one structuring agent. In contrast, cosmeticcompositions using an aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-formingpolymer particles wherein a structuring agent is either absent orcombined at less than effective structuring levels, typically would beincompatible when combined with lipidic components unless one or moreeffective emulsifying agents were also included. The present invention,however, does not require an emulsifying agent as a means of achievingcompatibility between the lipidic components of the first phase and theaqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles within thestructured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase. This is advantageousbecause it avoids the potential problem of skin irritation orsensitization that may occur with some types of emulsifying agents.Further, the present invention avoids the potential problem ofemulsifying agents destabilizing the polymer particles or interferingwith their adhesive and/or film-forming properties.

When a structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase is used as anadhesive film-forming agent in compositions of the present invention,their purpose is to simultaneously achieve viscoelastic structuring,compatibility, thermal-tolerance, and adhesive film-forming propertieswithin the first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase of thecomposition. The combination of viscoelastic structuring and adhesivefilm-forming properties when combined or dispersed within the firstphase enables the first phase to better resist migration from theintended application area and to better withstand physical and chemicalinsults (such as rubbing, washing, drinking, and eating) that wouldtypically cause removal of an applied film from the skin, hair, ornails. The aqueous medium, however, also provides a means to more easilyincorporate desirable optional ingredients that are compatible with theaqueous medium, such as water-soluble moisturizers, vitamins,skin-active agents, skin care ingredients, coloring agents,preservatives, and the like. Said materials may be used provided theirinclusion does not significantly disrupt the compatibility orlong-wearing properties of the composition once the composition has beenapplied wherein a film has been formed on the skin, lips, hair or nails.

The total level of structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase of thepresent invention may be present from at least about 1%, preferably fromat least about 3%, more preferably from at least about 5%, even morepreferably from at least about 7% and no more than about 60%, preferablyno more than about 50%, more preferably no more than about 45%, evenmore preferably no more than about 35%, by weight of the firststructured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase.

Combination of the structuring agent with an aqueous dispersion ofadhesive film-forming polymer particles may be achieved by any meansknown to those skilled in the art, such that the structuring agent isuniformly distributed and dispersed throughout the structured aqueouspolymeric adhesive phase, producing the intended thickening orstructuring effect. In most cases, it is more efficient or effective tointroduce the structuring agent gradually over a period of time into anaqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles whileunder the influence of continuous mixing. Any suitable means ofaddition, mixing, or temperature conditions may be used to facilitatecombination of the specific ingredients and satisfy manufacturing needs,provided the conditions do not significantly disrupt adhesion orfilm-forming properties of the polymer, or significantly disruptintended performance of the structuring agent. Attainment of thecompleted state for this phase may be determined by any appropriatemeans known to those skilled in the art for the specific ingredientcombination selected. A viscometer, or more preferably, a rheometer iswell-suited for determining the completed state.

In addition to imparting an adhesive film-forming capacity to the firstphase of the present invention, the structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase imparts beneficial structuring, compatibility, andthermal-tolerance to the composition that cannot be achieved either atall or as effectively when using an aqueous dispersion of adhesivefilm-forming polymer particles alone. Compositions using an aqueousdispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles wherein astructuring agent is either absent or combined at less than effectivelevels, are typically more vulnerable to migration away from theintended application area, removal forces, and other insults followingapplication. In these cases, an applied composition often lackssufficient structural integrity to resist migration and/or degradationuntil such time as evaporation/absorption of the aqueous medium haseffectively allowed final polymer film-formation processes to occur.During this time, portions of the applied composition can often migrateand/or be removed by insults, further reducing the availability andeffectiveness of the remaining portion to provide the intended benefitsto the skin, hair, and/or nails. This is particularly the situationobserved where the lipidic component of the first phase is comprisedeither entirely or predominately of non-volatile liquids, especially lowviscosity non-volatile liquids. In compositions of the presentinvention, however, the desired increased resistance to migration anddeformation is achieved by the viscosity and thixotropic/pseudoplasticstructure formed within the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase,as well as by physicochemical interaction forces between phaseboundaries of the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase and theremaining components comprising a first phase of the present invention.These effects are responsible for a significant enhancement to thelong-wearing capacity of aqueous dispersions of adhesive film-formingpolymers.

Finally, it has been discovered in the present invention that effectivestructuring of the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase alsoprovides improved tolerance to both hot and cold temperatures. Thethermal tolerance permits a wider range of lipidic components (i.e.,those requiring heat to be liquefied) to be included in the first phaseof the present invention. Moreover, it enables compositions of thepresent invention to more effectively withstand processing and storagetemperatures. Without being limited by theory, the reason for thisimproved thermal tolerance is believed to be the result of colloidalstabilization of the adhesive film-forming polymer particles by thestructuring agent, where the increased viscosity and/or intercedingpresence of the structuring agent among the film-forming polymerparticles effectively inhibits the ease or rate of polymer coagulationthat typically occurs at high (greater than 40° C.) and/or lowtemperatures (less than 0° C.). Although the extent of thermal tolerancewill be dependent upon such factors as the character and amounts offilm-forming polymer and structuring agent, preferred embodiments of thepresent invention have demonstrated an ability to withstand exposure totemperature as high as 90° C., and temperature as low as −5° C.

As previously stated, the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phasehas a viscoelastic structure that is distinctly pseudoplastic orthixotropic in nature. This viscoelastic structure provides both ashear-induced thinning behavior and a strong viscosity recoverymechanism to the composition. In preferred embodiments of the presentinvention, the composition recovers to at least about 20%, preferably toat least about 25%, more preferably to at least about 30%, even morepreferably to at least about 35%, most preferably to at least about 40%of its starting viscosity when shear rate is decreased to zero orremoved.

In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the structuredaqueous polymeric adhesive phase has a pseudoplastic ornear-pseudoplastic structure that is responsible for imparting theviscosity recovery mechanism to the composition. In particularlypreferred embodiments, the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phaserecovers to at least about 70%, preferably to at least about 80%, morepreferably to at least about 90%, even more preferably to at least about95%, most preferably to about 100% of its starting viscosity when shearrate is decreased to zero or removed.

It has been discovered in the present invention that the shear-thinningand viscosity recovery characteristics significantly influence theapplication and long-wear properties of the composition. At low shearrates (e.g., less than 10 s⁻¹), the structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase not only has a higher viscosity when compared to itsviscosity at high shear rates (e.g., greater than 200 s⁻¹), but also hasan ability to quickly recover to a high viscosity after being subjectedto high shear rates. Hence, at low shear rates or stresses, thecomposition benefits with increased structural integrity and resistanceto deformation or migration caused by low stress forces (e.g., gravity).This is particularly advantageous in low stress or shear conditions(such as storage) for enhancing composition stability, as well as afterapplication of the composition to skin, lips, hair, and/or nails forreducing the tendency of an applied film to migrate or be easilydisturbed or removed. A structured aqueous polymeric adhesive of thepresent invention has a viscosity (25° C.) at low shear rates (i.e., inthe range 1 s⁻¹-10 s⁻¹) from at least about 2 Pa-s (2,000 cP),preferably from at least about 4 Pa-s (4,000 cP), more preferably fromat least about 5 Pa-s (5,000 cP), even more preferably from at leastabout 6 Pa-s (6,000 cP), most preferably from at least about 7 Pa-s(7,000 cP) and no more than about 60 Pa-s (60,000 cP), preferably nomore than about 50 Pa-s (50,000 cP), more preferably no more than about45 Pa-s (45,000 cP), even more preferably no more than about 40 Pa-s(40,000 cP), most preferably no more than about 35 Pa-s (35,000 cP).

Conversely, at high shear rates (e.g., greater than 200 s⁻¹), thestructured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase has a significantly lowerviscosity than its viscosity at low shear rates. Hence, at high shearrates or stresses, the composition benefits with lower resistance todeformation and flow. And this is particularly advantageous in highshear conditions such as dispensing and filling operations, as well asduring product application conditions such as spreading, rubbing, orbrushing. A structured aqueous polymeric adhesive of the presentinvention has a viscosity (25° C.) at high shear rates (i.e., in therange 400 s⁻¹-500 s⁻¹) from at least about 0.5 Pa-s (500 cP), preferablyfrom at least about 1 Pa-s (1,000 cP), more preferably from at leastabout 1.5 Pa-s (1,500 cP) and no more than about 5 Pa-s (5,000 cP),preferably no more than about 4 Pa-s (4,000 cP), more preferably no morethan about 3 Pa-s (3,000 cP).

Steady shear rheometry measurements known in the art can be performed tocharacterize this viscosity response as a function of increasing shearfor the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase. These viscosityresponses can be determined by performing a controlled rate rotationramp using the instrumentation and methodology described later in thesection entitled “Test Methods”.

In order to more fully define and describe the viscoelastic propertiessought for the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase, dynamicoscillatory rheometry measurements, a common technique known in the art,can be performed to characterize the Elastic Modulus (G′) (solid-likeresponse) and Viscous Modulus (G″) (liquid-like response) of thestructured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase. The “Linear ViscoelasticRegion” (LVR) is defined as the region of applied oscillatory shearstress where there is a linear relationship between stress and strain,resulting in moduli that are constant or nearly constant within thisapplied shear stress region. These moduli responses can be determined byperforming dynamic oscillatory stress sweeps using the instrumentationand methodology described later in the section entitled “Test Methods”.The term “yield stress,” as used herein, is defined as the stressrequired to initiate flow, and can be identified from a dynamicoscillatory stress sweep as the critical stress at which the LVR isexceeded.

A structured aqueous polymeric adhesive of the present invention has anElastic Modulus (G′) (25° C.) in the Linear Viscoelastic Region (LVR) ata fixed oscillation frequency of 1 Hz from at least about 5 Pa,preferably from at least about 7 Pa, more preferably from at least about9 Pa, even more preferably from at least about 10 Pa and no more thanabout 100 Pa, preferably no more than about 80 Pa, more preferably nomore than about 60 Pa, even more preferably no more than about 50 Pa.

A structured aqueous polymeric adhesive of the present invention has aViscous Modulus (G″) (25° C.) in the Linear Viscoelastic Region (LVR) ata fixed oscillation frequency of 1 Hz from at least about 15 Pa,preferably from at least about 20 Pa, more preferably from at leastabout 30 Pa, even more preferably from at least about 35 Pa and no morethan about 300 Pa, preferably no more than about 250 Pa, more preferablyno more than about 200 Pa, even more preferably no more than about 180Pa.

The ratio of G″/G′ (or tan δ) in the LVR at a fixed oscillationfrequency of 1 Hz for a structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase isfrom at least about 1.5, preferably from at least about 2.0, morepreferably from at least about 2.5 and no more than about 5.5,preferably no more than about 5, more preferably no more than about 4.5.

The yield stress at a fixed oscillation frequency of 1 Hz for astructured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase is from at least about 10Pa, preferably from at least about 15 Pa, more preferably from at leastabout 20 Pa and no more than about 400 Pa, preferably no more than about350 Pa, more preferably no more than about 300 Pa.

(1) Aqueous Dispersion of Adhesive Film-Forming Polymer Particles

In compositions of the present invention, a structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase is comprised of at least one aqueous dispersion ofadhesive film-forming polymer particles.

For example, the level of adhesive film-forming particles may be presentfrom at least about 0.5%, preferably from at least about 1%, morepreferably from at least about 3% and no more than about 30%, preferablyno more than about 20%, more preferably no more than about 15%, byweight of the total composition.

In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the structuredaqueous polymeric adhesive phase and/or aqueous dispersion of adhesivefilm-forming polymer particles are substantially free of volatileorganic components. The term “substantially free of volatile organiccomponents” means the aqueous phase contains little or no volatileorganic compounds, such as low boiling point alcohols or other VolatileOrganic Compounds (VOC) as defined by the U.S. Environmental ProtectionAgency (40 CFR Part 51 Section 51.100 Definitions, as of August 2000).Preferably, the presence of volatile organic compounds is no more thanabout 10%, preferably no more than about 5%, more preferably no morethan about 1%, most preferably no more than about 0% (trace/impuritylevel), by weight of the composition.

Polymers of the present invention may be formed by chain-growth(free-radical) polymerization processes (so called addition polymers),and/or step-growth polymerization processes (so called condensationpolymers). Formation and stabilization of these polymer particledispersions in an aqueous medium may be achieved using means such assynthetic procedures characterized as: (1) polymer synthesized in thepresence of water (e.g., emulsion polymerization); and (2) polymersynthesized in the bulk, or in solution with an organic solvent, andsubsequently dispersed in water. More detailed reviews and descriptionsof these polymerization processes can be found in the publishedliterature, such as Waterborne Coatings: Emulsion and Water-SolublePaints, Charles R. Martens, Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, 1981;Polyurethane Handbook, Second Edition, Gunter Oertel, Ed., HanserGardner Publications, 1994; and Technology for Waterborne Coatings, J.Edward Glass, Ed., American Chemical Society, 1997.

Anionic, cationic, or nonionic stabilized aqueous polymer dispersionscan be used in compositions of the present invention. Anionicdispersions are generally more widely used and preferred to cationicdispersions due to the greater stability of anionic dispersions and verysmall particle sizes achievable. A limiting feature of anionic polymerdispersions that are stabilized solely by ionized carboxylic acid orsulphonic acid groups is that they become unstable at low pH (i.e.,below the pKa of the stabilizing acid group). Nonionically stabilizeddispersions, on the other hand, are more stable towards freezing, pHchanges, and addition of electrolytes, but to achieve small particlesizes, a high concentration of polyethylene oxide based co-monomer isrequired which can introduce undesirable water sensitivity into thefinal film. Thus, combinations of anionic and nonionic stabilizationscan be used to obtain a synergistic effect, whereby a combination ofsmall particle size and steric stability against freezing, pH changes,and electrolytes can be achieved, without the need for excessiveconcentrations of polyethylene oxide co-monomer. Polymer dispersionsutilizing this type of stabilization can be, for example, blended withlow pH, acid containing acrylic copolymers.

Specific adhesive film-forming polymers are selected based on theparticular properties and requirements sought for the intended use. Suchproperties and requirements include, but are not limited to, filmflexibility or hardness, adhesiveness, toughness or durability, andresistance to water or other chemical insults. It is also possible, andmany times preferable, to take advantage of the more versatileproperties achievable in block copolymers (polymers comprised of two ormore distinct polymer block segments) or heteropolymers (polymerscomprised of two or more different monomers) instead of homopolymers. Inblock type copolymers, the type and amount of “soft” and “hard” segmentshave a significant impact on performance properties.

Moreover, it is possible in compositions of the present invention tocombine two or more different aqueous dispersions of adhesivefilm-forming polymer particles together to achieve benefits of blendedor synergistic polymer properties. Examples of different combinationsinclude, but are not necessarily limited to, polyurethanes withpolyacrylates; and polyurethanes with polyesters.

Without being limited by theory, the adhesive film-forming polymers usedin compositions of the present invention may have linear, branched, orpartially cross-linked polymer chains, and may be selected from groupsconsisting of homopolymers, heteropolymers, copolymers and mixturesthereof. The polymers may be anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphotericin nature. Particularly preferred are the anionic and/or nonionicheteropolymers and/or copolymers.

Among the chain-growth or free-radical class of polymers, the adhesivefilm-forming polymers may be selected from the group consisting ofacrylic polymers and copolymers, vinyl polymers and copolymers,vinyl-acrylic copolymers, styrene-acrylic copolymers, silicone-acrylics,and mixtures thereof. Anionic free-radical polymers are particularlypreferred. Vinyl and/or acrylic polymers can result from monomers withethylenic unsaturation having at least one acid group, and/or esters ofacidic monomers, and/or amides of acidic monomers. Particularlypreferred among the monomers with ethylenic unsaturation having at leastone acid group are those selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,crotonic acid, and maleic acid. Preferable among the esters of acidicmonomers are those selected from (meth)acrylates, in particular, alkyl(meth)acrylates, aryl (meth)acrylates, and hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.Included among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, for example, are methylmethacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutylmethacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, and lauryl methacrylate.Included among the aryl (meth)acrylates, for example, are benzylacrylate and phenyl acrylate. Included among the hydroxyalkyl(meth)acrylates, for example, are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropylacrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.Preferable among the amides of acidic monomers are those selected from(meth)acrylamides, in particular, N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides. Includedamong the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, for example, are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, and N-t-octyl acrylamide.

Vinyl and/or acrylic polymers can also result from vinyl ester andstyrene monomers. These monomers can be polymerized with acidicmonomers, and/or esters of acidic monomers, and/or amides of acidicmonomers such as those discussed above. Preferable among the vinylesters are vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinylbenzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. The listing of monomers givenabove is not intended to be limiting and other monomers known to thoseskilled in the art of preparing these chain-growth polymers may beutilized.

Among the step-growth class of polymers, the adhesive film-formingpolymers may be selected from the group consisting of polyurethanes,polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, polyester-polyurethanes,polyether-polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidone-polyurethanes,acrylic-polyurethanes, silicone-polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides,polyesteramides, epoxy ester resins, and mixtures thereof. Among thepolyurethanes, the “soft” block segments are comprised of polyols thatare typically polyethers or polyesters that can range from low to highmolecular weight. The polyethers and polyesters may be linear and/orbranched aliphatic, and/or cycloaliphatic, and/or aromatic in nature.The “hard” block segments are comprised of the diisocyanates (that canbe aromatic, aliphatic, and/or cycloaliphatic), and chain extenderamines (that can be diamines or polyamines of aliphatic or aromaticnature). Preferred among these are the anionic and/or nonionic versionsof the polyurethanes and polyurethane hybrid copolymer classes listedabove. Particularly preferred are the polyether-polyurethanes andpolyester-polyurethanes.

The level of adhesive film-forming polymer particles dispersed in theaqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles of the presentinvention is from at least about 10%, preferably from at least about20%, more preferably from at least about 30% and no more than about 50%,preferably no more than about 45%, more preferably no more than about40% of the total weight percent of the aqueous dispersion of adhesivefilm-forming polymer particles.

The average size of adhesive film-forming polymer particles (asdetermined by dynamic light scattering methods known in the art)dispersed in the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles isfrom at least about 5 nm, preferably from at least about 10 nm and nomore than about 800 nm, preferably no more than about 500 nm, morepreferably no more than about 300 nm, even more preferably no more thanabout 100 nm.

The weight average molecular weight (as determined by gel permeationchromatography) of polymer dispersed in the aqueous dispersion offilm-forming polymer particles is preferably from at least about 10,000,more preferably from at least about 15,000, even more preferably from atleast about 20,000 and preferably no more than about 200,000, morepreferably no more than about 100,000, even more preferably no more thanabout 50,000.

(2) Structuring Agent

In compositions of the present invention, a structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase is comprised of at least one structuring agent.Specifically, the structuring agent is present from at least about0.01%, preferably from at least about 0.03%, more preferably from atleast about 0.05% and no more than about 5%, preferably no more thanabout 3%, more preferably no more than about 2%, by weight of the totalcomposition.

The structuring agent performs several essential functions when combinedwith an aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles.First, the hydrophilic and/or water-induced thickening response of thestructuring agent reduces the amount of “free” or mobile water in thestructured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase of the present invention. Itaccomplishes this by binding it as water of hydration or solvation forthe structuring agent, and immobilizing water within the thickenedstructure. Using an effective amount of structuring agent preventsseparation and/or inhibits migration of the water from the structuredaqueous polymeric adhesive phase of the present invention. Second, theinteraction forces established among water, structuring agent, andadhesive film-forming polymer particles are responsible for increasingviscosity and viscoelasticity of the structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase. The free movement or rearrangement of polymer particlesusually occurring in an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymerparticles is thus inhibited in the structured aqueous polymeric adhesivephase. A distinctly pseudoplastic or thixotropic profile is producedthat enables both shear-thinning behavior and a strong viscosityrecovery, the advantages of which were previously discussed. Third, thestructuring behavior imparts improved thermal tolerance for an aqueousdispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles in combinationwith a first phase. These functions enable desired compatibility of astructured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase when combined with the firstphase, as well as achieve long-wearing properties of the presentinvention.

Consideration must be given to several factors in selecting the type ofstructuring agent best suited to a specific composition. Such factorsinclude, but are not necessarily limited to, compatibility with theionic-nature of the particular adhesive film-forming polymer particles,temperature conditions in processing the composition, sensitivity to pHlevel or changes, and sensitivity to electrolytes or dissolved salts. Aperson skilled in the art will recognize the relative importance ofthese and other such factors in selecting an appropriate structuringagent to satisfy the essential functions listed above. Importantly, aperson skilled in the art will realize that the degree of structuringand pseudoplasticity or thixotropy can be adjusted by proper selectionof the type and quantity of structuring agents to satisfy desired leveland/or quality of application, feel, durability, appearance, andstability properties intended for the final composition.

In preferred embodiments, the structuring agent is capable of impartingits structuring effect when the pH is from about 4, preferably fromabout 5, more preferably from about 6 and no more than about 10,preferably no more than about 9.

In additional preferred embodiments, the structuring agent is capable ofmaintaining and/or recovering its structuring effect following exposureto temperature greater than about 40° C., preferably greater than about50° C., more preferably greater than about 60° C., even more preferablygreater than about 70° C., most preferably greater than about 80° C.

Particularly, the structuring agent of the present invention is selectedfrom the group consisting of natural gums and extracts, modified(semi-synthetic) gums and extracts, hydrophilic natural and syntheticsilicate and clay mineral agents, hydrophobic silicas, inorganic andpolymeric porous microparticle absorbents, synthetic polymers (such asacrylic polymers), and mixtures thereof.

Natural gums and extracts of the present invention are selected from,but not limited to, the group consisting of plant exudates, such as gumarabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, and gum ghatti; plant extracts, suchas pectins; plant seed flours or extracts, such as locust bean gum, guargum, psyllium seed gum, and quince seed gum; seaweed extracts, such asagar, alginates, and carrageenans; seed starches, such as corn starch,wheat starch, rice starch, and sorghum starch; tuber starches, such astapioca starch and potato starch; animal extracts, such as gelatin andcaseinates; and mixtures thereof.

Modified (semi-synthetic) gums and extracts of the present invention areselected from, but not limited to, the group consisting of cellulosederivatives, such as sodium carboxymethylcellulose,hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, andhydroxypropyl methylcellulose, as well as alkyl-modified cellulosederivatives, such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; modified plantextracts, such as hydroxypropyl guar; microbial or biosynthetic gums,such as xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, dextran and itsderivatives; modified starches and starch derivatives, such as potatostarch modified, corn starch modified, hydroxypropyl starch, dextrin andits derivatives; modified animal derivatives, such as chitin orchitosan, and their derivatives, collagen derivatives; and mixturesthereof.

Hydrophilic natural and synthetic clay mineral agents of the presentinvention are selected from, but not limited to, the group consisting ofhectorites, such as those sold under tradenames BENTONE® (ElementisSpecialties); bentonites and montmorillonites, such as those sold undertradenames OPTIGEL® (Sud-Chemie), GELWHITE® and MINERAL COLLOID® (bothby Southern Clay Products), and POLARGEL® (AMCOL Health & BeautySolutions); magnesium aluminum silicates, such as those sold undertradenames VEEGUM® (R.T. Vanderbilt Company), MAGNABRITE® (AMCOL Health& Beauty Solutions), and GELWHITE® MAS (Southern Clay Products); sodiummagnesium silicate, such as those sold under tradenames OPTIGEL® SH(Sud-Chemie) and LAPONITE® (Southern Clay Products); lithium magnesiumsodium silicate, such as LUCENTITE® SWN (Kobo Products); lithiummagnesium silicate, such as LUCENTITE® SAN (Kobo Products); and mixturesthereof.

Hydrophobic silicas of the present invention are selected from, but notlimited to, the group consisting of hydrophobically modified fumedsilicas, such as WACKER HDK® H15, H20, and H30 (Wacker-Chemie), andhydrophobic grades under tradenames of AEROSIL® (Degussa AG) andCAB-O-SIL® (Cabot Corporation); and mixtures thereof.

Inorganic and polymeric porous microparticle absorbents of the presentinvention are selected from, but not limited to, the group consisting ofhigh porosity/void volume fumed silicas, such as MSS-5003H and SilicaShells (both sold by Kobo Products), high porosity/void volume silicateslike calcium silicate, such as sold under tradename HUBERDERM™ (J.M.Huber Corporation); high porosity/void volume polymeric particleabsorbents including methacrylate polymers like allyl methacrylatescopolymer, sold as POLY-PORE® E-200 (AMCOL Health & Beauty Solutions),and cross-linked dimethacrylate copolymers like laurylmethacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer sold as POLYTRAP® 6603(Enhanced Derm Technologies); high porosity cellulose beads likeCellulobeads® (Kobo Products); and mixtures thereof.

Synthetic polymers of the present invention include, but are not limitedto, acrylic polymers, such as polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, andacrylic copolymers and crosspolymers, such as the carbomers oracrylates/C1O-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers sold under tradenameCARBOPOL® (Noveon), and sodium polyacrylate sold under tradenameRAPITHIX™ A-100 (International Specialty Products);alkali-soluble/swellable emulsion (ASE) polymers,hydrophobically-modified alkali-soluble/swellable emulsion (HASE)polymers, and hydrophobically-modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR)polymers, such as those sold under tradename ACULYNT™ (Rohm and HaasCompany) and STRUCTURE® (National Starch and Chemical Company);hydrophobically-modified ethoxylate urethane alkali-soluble/swellableemulsion (HUERASE) polymers, such a those sold under tradename UCAR®POLYPHOBE® (Union Carbide Corporation); copolymers of methyl vinyl etherand maleic anhydride, such as PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer sold undertradename STABILEEZE® (International Specialty Products);hydrophobically modified non-ionic associative thickeners such as thosesold under tradename PURE-THIX® (Sud-Chemie); and mixtures thereof.

Preferred structuring agents of the present invention are those capableof achieving and maintaining the most consistent structuring andcompatibility performance across a range of pH and/or electrolyteconditions, as well as temperature conditions. Particularly preferredare those from the groups of modified (semi-synthetic) gums andextracts, especially the cellulose derivatives, hydrophilic natural andsynthetic clay mineral agents, and synthetic polymers.

Compositions of the present invention may comprise at least onestructuring agent in an amount effective to viscoelastically thicken,but not solidify, the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase of thepresent invention to be compatible with the first structured andadhesive film-forming fatty phase of the present invention. However, itis possible, and in some situations may be more preferable, incompositions of the present invention to use two or more structuringagents together in the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase inorder to achieve the benefit of blended or synergistic properties forviscosity, compatibility, thermal-tolerance, or stability.

(iii) Lipophilic Structuring Agent

Compositions of the present invention comprise at least one lipophilicstructuring agent in an amount effective to retain the second fattyphase entrapped in said cosmetic composition prior to application onmammalian keratinous tissue.

Lipophilic structuring agents of the first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase comprise from at least about 0.50%, preferablyfrom at least about 1%, more preferably from at least about 2%, evenmore preferably from at least about 4% and no more than about 60%,preferably no more than about 50%, more preferably no more than about40%, even more preferably no more than about 30%, by weight of the firststructured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase.

The term “lipophilic structuring agent” as used herein refers to anynaturally- or synthetically-derived material having lipophilic tendencythat provides a thickening or firming action resulting in a gelled,paste-like, semi-solid, or solid structure in the first phase. By meansof one or more physicochemical interactions with one or more componentsthat comprise the first phase, a lipophilic structuring agent imparts asignificant increase in viscosity and/or resistance to an applied stressor deformation force. Examples of these physicochemical interactionsinclude, but are not limited to, liquid absorption, particle swelling,particle networking/flocculation, crystallization, hydrogen bondbridging, polymer chain entanglement, and coagulation. Preferredstructures are those that retain sufficient viscosity/firmness toprevent premature separation of the second phase from the composition atvarious storage temperatures (e.g., from about 0° C. to about 50° C.)prior to application, but efficiently collapse, breakdown, or becomeshear-thinning upon application to mammalian keratinous tissue. Thestructure may demonstrate no measurable recovery whatsoever followingapplication (i.e., irreversible structure loss), or may be thixotropicor pseudoplastic. The term “thixotropic” as used herein means theviscosity decreases when the structure is subjected to increasing shearrate followed by a time-dependent partial or total recovery of thestarting viscosity when the shear rate is decreased or removed. The term“pseudoplastic” as used herein means the viscosity decreases when thestructure is subjected to increasing shear rate but a time-independentor instantaneous total recovery of the starting viscosity occurs whenthe shear rate is decreased or removed.

Lipophilic structuring agents of the present invention may be derivedfrom sources such as mineral, marine, animal, plant, and/or synthetic,and can be selected from polar and non-polar properties, and mixturesthereof. They may be in paste, semi-solid or solid state (at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure), and be capable of transforming toliquid state when heated above its melting point temperature (typicallyless than 100° C.) for the purpose of combining with the firststructured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase.

In order to prepare products that are more viscous and/or structured(including semi-solid and solid product forms), one or more of thelipophilic structuring agents may comprise a lipidic solid formingmaterial in an amount sufficient to thicken and/or solidify so as toretain the second phase entrapped in the composition prior toapplication. These lipidic solid formers may be used in the presentinvention provided they are used at levels that do not significantlyinterfere with the adhesive film-forming properties of the adhesivefilm-forming agent included in the first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase. Said solid formers are selected from the groupconsisting of solid polyol fatty acid polyesters, waxes, solid oils, andmixtures thereof.

The solid polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in the presentinvention include those solid polyol fatty acid polyester materialsdescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,555,097 issued to Rabe et al., on Apr. 29,2003.

Waxes are defined as organic mixtures or compounds of high molecularweight, solid at room temperature (25° C.) and generally similar incomposition to fats and oils except that they contain no glycerides.Included are high molecular weight hydrocarbons, fatty acids, fatty acidesters, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Waxes useful in thepresent invention are selected from those generally known in the art.

Suitable high molecular weight fatty acids have from about 10 to about40 carbon atoms. Examples include, but are not limited to,12-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxylauric acid, 16-hydroxyhexadecanoicacid, behenic acid, stearic acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, andmixtures thereof. Further examples of some suitable fatty acids aredescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,429,816 issued to Hofrichter et al., onJul. 4, 1995; and U.S. Pat. No. 5,552,136 issued to Motley on Sep. 3,1996.

Suitable high molecular weight fatty acid esters include ester waxes,monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.Non-limiting examples of suitable ester waxes include stearyl stearate,stearyl behenate, palmityl stearate, cetearyl behenate, and behenylbehenate. Specific examples of these include CRODAMOL SS from Croda andthe KESTER WAXES from Koster Keunen.

Suitable high molecular weight fatty alcohols include monohydricalcohols having from about 20 to about 40 carbon atoms, and do notperform as primary emulsifiers, such as the PERFORMACOLS™ from New PhaseTechnologies.

Other waxes useful in the fatty phase of the present invention areselected from the group consisting of animal waxes, vegetable waxes,mineral waxes, various fractions of natural waxes, synthetic waxes,petroleum waxes, ethylenic polymers, hydrocarbon types such asFischer-Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof wherein thewaxes have a melting point greater than about 30° C. The waxes mostuseful herein have melting points from about 30° C. to about 115° C.

Waxes suitable for use include, but are not limited to, beeswax, lanolinwax, shellac wax (animal waxes); carnauba, candelilla, bayberry(vegetable waxes); ozokerite, ceresin (mineral waxes); paraffin,microcrystalline waxes (petroleum waxes); polyethylene (ethylenicpolymers) and polyethylene homopolymers (Fischer-Tropsch waxes); C30-45alkyl methicones/dimethicones from Dow Corning and General Electric,KP-560P series of acrylic silicone copolymers from Shin-Etsu Silicones(silicone waxes); and mixtures thereof.

Other waxes useful in the present invention are selected from the groupconsisting of jojoba esters such as the FLORAESTERS® sold by FloratechAmericas, PERFORMALENE™ polyethylenes and PERFORMA V™ synthetic polymerssold by New Phase Technologies, alkylated polyvinylpyrrolidines soldunder tradename GANEX® from International Specialty Products,SYNCROWAXES® sold by Croda, fatty alcohols from C22 to C50, and mixturesthereof. Synthetic waxes include those disclosed in Warth, Chemistry andTechnology of Waxes, Part 2, 1956, Reinhold Publishing. The waxes usefulherein are selected from the C₈ to C₅₀ hydrocarbon waxes. Such waxesinclude long chained polymers of ethylene oxide combined with a dihydricalcohol, namely polyoxyethylene glycol. Such waxes include CARBOWAX™available from Carbide and Carbon Chemicals company. Other syntheticwaxes include long-chained polymers of ethylene with OH or other stoplength grouping at end of chain. Such waxes include the Fischer-Tropschwaxes as disclosed in the text disclosed above at pages 465-469 andinclude ROSSWAX™, available from Ross company and PT-0602 available fromAstor Wax Company.

Solid oils useful herein are those that have a melting point from aboveabout 30° C., preferably above about 37° C. and no more than below about250° C., preferably no more than below about 100° C., even morepreferably no more than below about 80° C. As used herein, the term“solid oils” refers to any oil or oil-like material that is solid orsemi-solid at temperatures of from about 20° C. to about 25° C., and hasa solubility in water of generally less than about 1% by weight at 25°C. Examples of suitable solid oils include, but are not limited to,petrolatum, highly branched hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acidesters, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polypropyleneglycols, alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, fatty acids having from about 10 toabout 40 carbon atoms, alkyl amides of di- and/or tri-basic carboxylicacids, n-acyl amino acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Solid oilsuseful in the fatty phase of the present invention are further describedin U.S. Pat. No. 4,919,934, to Deckner et al., issued Apr. 24, 1990.

Suitable highly branched hydrocarbons for use herein include hydrocarboncompounds having from about 17 to about 40 carbon atoms. Non-limitingexamples of these hydrocarbon compounds include squalane, cholesterol,lanolin, docosane (i.e., a C22 hydrocarbon), and isoparaffins.

Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils that are solid orsemi-solid at temperatures from about 20° C. to about 25° C. are alsouseful herein. Examples of suitable vegetable oils and hydrogenatedvegetable oils include, but are not limited to, babassu oil, cocoabutter, coconut oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, hydrogenated saffloweroil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedcottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil,hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybeanoil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenatedrice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil,hydrogenated macadamia oil, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

Suitable polypropylene glycols for use herein include C4-C16 alkylethers of polypropylene glycols, and C1-C16 carboxylic acid esters ofpolypropylene glycols. Non-limiting examples of these materials includePPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17,PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30, PPG-34, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable alkyl amides of di- and/or tri-basic carboxylic acids for useherein include disubstituted or branched monoamides, monosubstituted orbranched diamides, triamides, and mixtures thereof. Some specificexamples of alkyl amides of di- and tri-basic carboxylic acids include,but are not limited to, alkyl amides of citric acid, tricarballylicacid, aconitic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, and itaconic acid such as1,2,3-propane tributylamide, 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propane tributylamide,1-propene-1,2,3-trioctylamide, N,N′,N″-tri(methyldecylamide)amine,2-dodecyl-N,N′-dibutylsuccinamide, and mixtures thereof. Other suitableamides include the n-acylamino acid derivatives described in U.S. Pat.No. 5,429,816, issued to Hofrichter et al., on Jul. 4, 1995.

Additional suitable lipophilic structuring agents useful for the presentinvention include, but are not limited to, organically modified clays,fumed silica, trihydroxystearin, silicone gels or silicone elastomers,and mixtures thereof.

Organically modified clays useful for the present invention include, butare not limited to, organically modified versions of hectorite,bentonite, smectite and montmorillonite clay (such as those sold undertradename BENTONE® from Elementis Specialties, TIXO-GEL® fromSud-Chemie, and CLAYTONE® from Southern Clay Products). Hydrophilicallymodified fumed silicas include, but are not limited to, WACKER HDK® N20and T30 grades (Wacker-Chemie), and hydrophilic grades under tradenameof AEROSIL® (Degussa AG). Silicone gels or silicone elastomers include,but are not limited to, the “KSG” thickening series (KSG-15, KSG-16,KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44) from Shin-Etsu Silicones, DOWCORNING®9040, 9041, 9045, and 9546 silicone elastomer blends from DowCorning, SFE839™, SFE818™, and Velvesil™ silicone gels from GESilicones, and WACKER-BELSIL® RG-100 from Wacker-Chemie.

(B) Second Fatty Phase

The composition of the present invention comprises a second fatty phasethat is incompatible with the first structured and adhesive film-formingfatty phase, and entrapped in the composition. By “incompatible” it ismeant that the second phase is substantially or completely insolublewith the first phase, such that the second phase has little to noaffinity or solubility with the first phase, and remains distinguishablefrom the first phase. This second phase remains dispersed and entrappedthroughout the composition until the composition experiences shearingforces created by application of the composition on mammalian keratinoustissue. At this point, the dispersed second phase is released or escapesfrom the composition, so that the second phase coalesces and spreadsover the layer of first phase, essentially forming a barrier layer.

The second fatty phase provides the composition with a medium capable ofdelivering a glossy and protective barrier layer that separates from thecomposition upon application, forming a barrier layer over the firstphase deposited on mammalian keratinous tissue. Depending on theintended product use, this separating barrier layer can significantlyimprove ease of spreading, lubricity, emolliency, moisturization forenhanced feel and gloss attributes for the composition.

The second fatty phase of the present invention is present from at leastabout 5%, preferably from at least about 15%, more preferably from atleast about 25%, even more preferably from at least about 35% and nomore than about 70%, preferably no more than about 60%, more preferablyno more than about 55%, even more preferably no more than about 50% byweight of the total composition.

The second fatty phase of the present invention comprises at least onenon-volatile lipidic component. The second fatty phase may have aviscosity from about 1 cSt, preferably from about 5 cSt, more preferablyfrom about 10 cSt and no more than about 5,000 cSt, preferably no morethan about 3,000 cSt, more preferably no more than about 1,000 cSt.

The at least one non-volatile lipidic component of the second fattyphase is in a liquid state at or about room temperature (25° C.). Thelipidic materials of the second fatty phase may be derived from sourcessuch as mineral, marine, animal, plant, and/or synthetic, and can beselected from polar and non-polar properties, and mixtures thereof, solong as they are sufficiently incompatible with the first phase so as toreadily separate from the composition upon application.

The second fatty phase preferably is close to being opticallytransparent or clear, and colorless or low in color so as to have themaximum effect on gloss and/or least effect on color observation for theapplied layer of first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase.

The second fatty phase comprises one or more lipidic components that areincompatible with the first structured and adhesive film-forming fattyphase.

It should be noted, however, some of the individual components making upthe first phase and second phase may exhibit some degree ofcompatibility with components of the opposite phase. Volatile oils areone such example of a component that may partition between the first andsecond phases. However, in the present invention, any componentdemonstrating at least some compatibility for both the first and secondphases will not exhibit compatibility to the degree that its inclusionmakes the first and second phases completely compatible with oneanother. Furthermore, while the second phase is incompatible with thefirst phase, the second phase may be an aggregate of materials whereinsome and possibly all of those materials are incompatible with eachother.

The existence of a second fatty phase entrapped within the compositionis readily detectable by an artisan using routine analytical methods,including using centrifugation, microscopy, or other means.

To enable the spreading of the second fatty phase over the surface, itis beneficial that the second fatty phase separates from the compositionand easily spreads over the first structured and adhesive film-formingfatty phase layer by routine application without receding back into orforming individual droplets over the first layer. The ability of asecond fatty phase to spread and remain in such a state is determined bythe surface tension of the second fatty phase and by the surface tensionof the underlying first layer. The second fatty phase is found to bespreadable over a surface when its surface tension is equal to or belowthe critical surface tension for wetting the surface. The criticalsurface tension for wetting a surface, first defined by Fox and Zisman,is equal to the surface tension of the second fatty phase which justexhibits a zero contact angle on the surface; see H. W. Fox and W. A.Zisman, J. Colloid Sci., 5, 514 (1950), H. W. Fox and W. A. Zisman, J.Colloid Sci., 7, 109 (1952) and H. W. Fox and W. A. Zisman, J. ColloidSci., 7, 428 (1952). Since this critical surface tension of wetting canvary with composition of the first phase, a second fatty phase with asurface tension equal to or below the critical surface tension ofwetting may be chosen for each particular first phase composition. Sucha second fatty phase will exhibit a contact angle of about zero whenplaced on a flat, drawn-down film of the compositions first phase. Thesurface tension of the second fatty phase of the present invention isless than about 35 dynes/cm, preferably less than about 30 dynes/cm,most preferably less than about 25 dynes/cm.

In the present invention, non-volatile lipophilic liquids may beselected in particular to enhance the lubricity, conditioning, andgloss/shine properties of an applied film on the skin, lips, hair,and/or nails. In contrast to volatile oils/liquids, compositionsutilizing high levels of non-volatile oils/liquids typically producefilms that feel moist and/or soft and supple to the consumer, and appearwet or shiny/glossy to the consumer. In certain product uses, mostespecially in the case of lipcolor and/or lipgloss, this is particularlydesirable or preferred.

In a preferred embodiment, the total lipidic component of the secondfatty phase is comprised of at least about 10% by weight, preferably atleast about 30% by weight, more preferably at least about 60% by weight,even more preferably at least about 80% by weight, most preferably 100%by weight of one or more non-volatile lipophilic liquids having arefractive index (at 20° C.) of at least about 1.450, preferably atleast about 1.460, more preferably at least about 1.470, even morepreferably at least about 1.480, most preferably at least about 1.490.

Non-volatile lipophilic liquids for the second fatty phase may beselected from groups consisting of non-volatile hydrocarbon liquids,non-volatile silicone liquids, non-volatile fluorinated liquids, andmixtures thereof. These liquids may be selected from saturated andunsaturated, straight and branched chain, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, andaromatic structures, and combinations thereof.

Preferred non-volatile lipophilic liquids useful in the presentinvention include poly(organosiloxane) fluids,poly(phenylmethylsiloxane) fluids, poly(fluoroalkylmethlysiloxane)fluids, perfluoropolyethers, the copolymers of said fluids, and mixturesthereof.

Non-limiting examples of non-volatile silicone liquids include, but arenot limited to, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) comprising groups selectedfrom alkyl, alkoxy, phenyl, and fluoroalkyl groups that are pendantand/or at the end of the silicone chain and containing from 2 to 24carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane; andmixtures thereof.

Examples of non-volatile fluorinated liquids include, but are notlimited to, fluorinated silicones, such as perfluorononyl dimethicones,and the perfluoropolyethers commercially available under the Fomblin HCseries.

Optional Ingredients

Compositions of the present invention may also comprise one or more ofthe following optional ingredients including, but not limited to,coloring agents, fillers/bulking agents, active agents and mixturesthereof.

Coloring Agents

Coloring agents suitable for use herein include all inorganic andorganic colors/pigments, including mineral or pearl pigments suitablefor use in cosmetic compositions. Such coloring agents include thoseeither with or without a surface coating or treatment.

Compositions of the present invention may contain at least one coloringagent in an amount sufficient to provide the type and intensity ofcoloration, and/or light scattering, and/or light reflecting effectssought by the user for a particular product. Without being limited bytheory, the coloring agents are used herein at levels of up to about 20%by weight relative to the total composition, and are included in thefirst structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase of the presentinvention.

Preferred inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide (anatase or rutileforms), zinc oxide, iron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganeseviolet, ultramarine blue, and chromium oxide green.

Organic colors/pigments are usually aluminum, barium, calcium, orstrontium salts or lakes. Lakes are either a pigment that is extended orreduced with a solid diluent or an organic pigment that is prepared bythe precipitation of a water-soluble dye on an adsorptive surface, whichusually is aluminum hydrate. A lake also forms from precipitation of aninsoluble salt from an acid or basic dye. Calcium and barium lakes arealso used herein. Those certified by the Food and Drug Administration ofthe United States of America under the FD&C and/or D&C designations areparticularly preferred.

Preferred lakes of the present invention are Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake and Blue 1 Aluminum Lake, Red 6Barium Lake, Red 7 Calcium Lake, Red 30 Talc Lake, and Red 30 AluminumLake.

Other coloring agents can also be included in the compositions, such asdyes bearing the FD&C and/or D&C designations, including Red 6, Red 21,Red 27, Blue 1, Orange 5, and Green 5 dyes. Preferred mineral and pearlpigments include both white and colored pigments. Examples of whitemineral and pearl pigments include titanated micas (mica covered withtitanium dioxide), and bismuth oxychloride. Examples of colored mineraland pearl pigments include titanated micas with iron oxides, titanatedmicas with organic colors, titanated micas with chromium or aluminumoxide, titanated micas with ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, and titanatedmicas with carmine.

Fillers/Bulking Agents

Fillers suitable for use in the first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase may be inorganic or organic, and beincorporated as complementary ingredients to help maintain moreconsistent coloring and/or performance properties in the compositions.Examples of such fillers/bulking agents include, but are not limited to,talc, mica, silica, boron nitride, polymeric powders such as those madeof Nylon®, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), polyethylene, acrylatepolymers/copolymers like polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), and siliconepowders like polymethylsilsesquioxane (such as sold under tradenameTOSPEARL® from GE Silicones) and silsesquioxane crosspolymers (such asthe “KSP” series sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones), and mixtures thereof.

Active Agents

Active agents suitable for use herein include those capable of providingcare and/or treatment to the skin, lips, hair, and/or nails. Examples ofsuch ingredients include, but are not limited to, UVA/UVB sunscreenagents, lightening/bleaching agents, tanning/coloring agents, vitamins,antiperspirant/deodorant agents, anti-acne agents, anti-aging agents,anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants,antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, and mixtures thereof.

There are a number of other ingredients approved for use in the cosmeticart that may be used in compositions of the present invention. Suchingredients are those approved for use in cosmetics and can be foundlisted in reference books such as the CTFA International CosmeticIngredient Handbook, Tenth Edition, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, andFragrance Association, Inc. 2004. Said materials may be used providedtheir inclusion does not significantly disrupt the composition once ithas been applied wherein a film has been formed on the skin, hair,and/or nails. Said ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, flavoroils, and the like. Hypoallergenic compositions can be made into thepresent invention where said compositions do not contain fragrances,flavor oils, lanolin, sunscreens, particularly PABA, or othersensitizers and irritants.

Composition Rheology

In preferred embodiments of the present invention, final compositionsmay have rheological properties in a specified range to achieve the mostdesirable set of properties with respect to application/spreading,durability along-wear, and/or stability.

Compositions of the present invention may have a viscosity (25° C.) atlow shear rates (i.e., in the range 1 s⁻¹-10 s⁻¹) from at least about 4Pa-s (4,000 cP), preferably from at least about 6 Pa-s (6,000 cP), morepreferably from at least about 8 Pa-s (8,000 cP), even more preferablyfrom at least about 10 Pa-s (10,000 cP), most preferably from at leastabout 12 Pa-s (12,000 cP) and no more than about 2,000 Pa-s (2,000,000cP), preferably no more than about 1,000 Pa-s (1,000,000 cP), morepreferably no more than about 600 Pa-s (600,000 cP), even morepreferably no more than about 400 Pa-s (400,000 cP), most preferably nomore than about 200 Pa-s (200,000 cP).

Compositions of the present invention may have a viscosity (25° C.) athigh shear rates (i.e., in the range 400 s⁻¹-500 s⁻¹) from at leastabout 0.5 Pa-s (500 cP), preferably from at least about 1 Pa-s (1,000cP), more preferably from at least about 1.5 Pa-s (1,500 cP) and no morethan about 15 Pa-s (15,000 cP), preferably no more than about 10 Pa-s(10,000 cP), more preferably no more than about 7 Pa-s (7,000 cP), mostpreferably no more than about 5 Pa-s (5,000 cP).

Compositions of the present invention may have an Elastic Modulus (G′)(25° C.) in the Linear Viscoelastic Region (LVR) at a fixed oscillationfrequency of 1 Hz from at least about 100 Pa, preferably from at leastabout 200 Pa, more preferably from at least about 400 Pa, even morepreferably from at least about 600 Pa and no more than about 500×10³ Pa,preferably no more than about 400×10³ Pa, more preferably no more thanabout 300×10³ Pa, even more preferably no more than about 200×10³ Pa.

Compositions of the present invention may have a Viscous Modulus (G″)(25° C.) in the Linear Viscoelastic Region (LVR) at a fixed oscillationfrequency of 1 Hz from at least about 30 Pa, preferably from at leastabout 100 Pa, more preferably from at least about 150 Pa, even morepreferably from at least about 200 Pa and no more than about 200×10³ Pa,preferably no more than about 150x10³ Pa, more preferably no more thanabout 100×10³ Pa, even more preferably no more than about 80x10³ Pa.

The ratio of G″/G′ (or tan δ) in the LVR at a fixed oscillationfrequency of 1 Hz for compositions of the present invention may be fromat least about 0.1, preferably from at least about 0.2, more preferablyfrom at least about 0.25 and no more than about 1.0, preferably no morethan about 0.9, more preferably no more than about 0.8.

As stated herein, the combination of viscoelastic structuring andadhesive film-forming properties when combined or dispersed within thefirst phase aids in forming a long-wearing cosmetic composition that isable to resist migration from the intended application area andwithstands physical and chemical insults (such as rubbing, washing,drinking, and eating) that would typically result in removal of anapplied film from the skin, hair, or nails.

Method of Use/Application

Long-wearing and glossy cosmetic compositions of the present inventionare achieved when the first structured and adhesive film-forming fattyphase is combined with the second fatty phase.

In one acceptable embodiment, first structured and adhesive film-formingfatty phase and second fatty phase are combined and homogeneouslyblended into a single composite composition that remains a stablecomposite composition over time. By “homogeneous” it is meant that it ismacroscopically uniform in structure and composition. By “stable” it ismeant that it is capable of remaining homogeneous and functional with noseparation (or only very minor separation) occurring over a period ofseveral months to several years when stored at room temperature (25° C.)and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In this particular embodiment, thecomposite composition may take on a variety of different product formsin addition to being liquid (such as creams, pastes, and solids). Whenheated sufficiently to be liquefied, lipidic components that are pastyand/or solid at room temperature can be homogeneously blended atsignificant levels to produce paste-like and/or solid product forms uponsubsequent cooling of the composition. In this particular embodiment,the single composite composition can be manufactured as such, and usedby consumers repeatedly over time without any further blending ormaintenance of product uniformity. Any means of product application toskin, hair, and/or nails can be utilized that is suitable for deliveringthe chosen product form. Such means include, but are not limited to,sticks, pomades, brushes, bristled wands, doe foot wands, sponges, pads,squeeze tubes, liquid dispensing pumps, and liquid dispensing pens.

Test Methods

The following sections provide specifics of the instrumentation and testmethodologies used to determine the relevant features described forpreferred embodiments of the present invention.

Unless otherwise stated, all rheological testing is performed utilizinga ThermoHaake RS300 model rheometer running Rheowin Pro Job Managersoftware (Version 2.93), in combination with a ThermoHaake DC30Thermocontroller and K20 Circulating Water Bath for temperature control.

It is also important to note that in the course of evaluating structuredaqueous polymeric adhesive phases of the present invention, it wasobserved that very low Relative Humidity (i.e., less than 40%,especially less than 30%) would often cause rapid evaporation and dryout of material around the plate edge during the period of testing. Thisled to increasing edge effects and apparent changes in rheologicalproperties of the material during testing if steps were not taken toestablish adequate Relative Humidity (i.e., 35% to 60%, preferably 40%to 60%) around the instrumentation.

Viscosity Curve (Steady Shear Rheometry-Controlled Rate Rotation)

For the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase, viscosity responseas a function of changing shear rate is determined by the followingmethod and conditions:

-   1. A “PP20Ti” Sensor (Titanium Parallel Plate, 20 mm diameter) is    used in combination with a 20 mm or larger base Measuring Plate. A    35 mm base Measuring Plate is typically used to maintain the most    consistent contact of product in the gap between plates throughout    the measurement process.-   2. With the temperature controller programmed to maintain a constant    25° C.±0.2° C., the plates are moved into contact to establish the    “zero position” gap, and then moved apart to allow loading of a    sample.-   3. Using a small stainless steel spatula, sample is loaded onto the    base Measuring Plate, and the base Measuring Plate is raised to    achieve a 0.100 mm gap with the PP20Ti Sensor.

04. With the gap set, the straight edge of a spatula is used tocarefully remove excess material away from the edge of the Sensor platewithout disturbing the Sensor position (straight edge spatula is placedin contact with Sensor edge and base Measuring Plate, and slowly drawnradially outward in successive strokes around the Sensor to remove theexcess material from around the edge).

-   5. Having removed the excess material, a linear (or logarithmic)    controlled rate sweep is performed from 0 s⁻¹ to 500s⁻¹ in a 60    second period collecting a minimum of 90 data points, followed    immediately with a linear (or logarithmic) controlled rate sweep    from 500s⁻¹ back to 0 s⁻¹ in a 60 second period collecting a minimum    of 90 data points. Resulting data for viscosity response as a    function of shear rate are viewed graphically on either a    linear-linear or log-log scaling basis.-   6. Having completed the sample measurement, the plates are moved    apart to be thoroughly cleaned of material (using an isopropyl    alcohol/water mixture) and dried. The process is repeated again with    additional material as needed in order to obtain an accurate,    reproducible set of results for each sample (typically at least 2 to    3 times). For the total composition, viscosity response as a    function of changing shear rate is determined by the following    method and conditions:-   1. A “PP20Ti” Sensor (Titanium Parallel Plate, 20 mm diameter) is    used in combination with a 20 mm or larger base Measuring Plate. A    35 mm base Measuring Plate is typically used to maintain the most    consistent contact of product in the gap between plates throughout    the measurement process.-   2. With the temperature controller programmed to maintain a constant    25° C.±0.2° C., the plates are moved into contact to establish the    “zero position” gap, and then moved apart to allow loading of a    sample.-   3. Using a small stainless steel spatula, sample is loaded onto the    base Measuring Plate, and the base Measuring Plate is raised to    achieve a 0.100 mm gap with the PP20Ti Sensor.-   4. With the gap set, the straight edge of a spatula is used to    carefully remove excess material away from the edge of the Sensor    plate without disturbing the Sensor position (straight edge spatula    is placed in contact with Sensor edge and base Measuring Plate, and    slowly drawn radially outward in successive strokes around the    Sensor to remove the excess material from around the edge).-   5. Having removed the excess material, a linear (or logarithmic)    controlled rate sweep is performed from 0 s⁻¹ to 500 s⁻¹ in a 120    second period collecting a minimum of 90 data points, followed    immediately with a linear (or logarithmic) controlled rate sweep    from 500s⁻¹ back to 0 s⁻¹ in a 120 second period collecting a    minimum of 90 data points. Resulting data for viscosity response as    a function of shear rate are viewed graphically on either a    linear-linear or log-log scaling basis.-   6. Having completed the sample measurement, the plates are moved    apart to be thoroughly cleaned of material (using an isopropyl    alcohol/water mixture) and dried. The process is repeated again with    additional material as needed in order to obtain an accurate,    reproducible set of results for each sample (typically at least 2 to    3 times).    Dynamic Oscillatory Stress Sweep

For the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase, Elastic Modulus(G′) and Viscous Modulus (G″) responses as a function of increasingstress at a fixed frequency are determined by increasing shear stress inan oscillatory mode according to the following method and conditions:

-   1. A “PP20Ti” Sensor (Titanium Parallel Plate, 20 mm diameter) is    used in combination with a 20 mm or larger base Measuring Plate. In    this case, a 20 mm base Measuring plate is typically used since it    had been found to maintain a consistent contact of product in the    gap between plates throughout the measurement process.-   2. With the temperature controller programmed to maintain a constant    25° C.±0.2° C., the plates are moved into contact to establish the    “zero position” gap, and then moved apart to allow loading of a    sample.-   3. Using a small stainless steel spatula, sample is loaded onto the    base Measuring Plate, and the base Measuring Plate is raised to    achieve a 0.100 mm gap with the PP20Ti Sensor.-   4. With the gap set, the straight edge of a spatula is used to    carefully remove excess material away from the edge of the Sensor    plate without disturbing the Sensor position (straight edge spatula    is placed in contact with base Measuring Plate, and slowly drawn    away in successive strokes around the Sensor to remove the excess    material from around the edge).-   5. Having removed the excess material, a controlled stress sweep is    performed at an oscillation frequency of 1 Hz starting from either    0.10 Pa or 1.00 Pa (depending on the degree of viscosity inherent to    a given sample) using “optimized” repetitions to collect a minimum    of 20 data points in logarithmic steps up to 1000 Pa. Resulting data    for G′, G″ responses as a function of applied stress are viewed    graphically on a log-log scaling basis.-   6. Having completed the sample measurement, the plates are moved    apart to be thoroughly cleaned of material (using an isopropyl    alcohol/water mixture) and dried. The process is repeated again with    additional material as needed in order to obtain an accurate,    reproducible set of results for each sample (typically at least 2 to    3 times).

For the total composition, Elastic Modulus (G′) and Viscous Modulus (G″)responses as a function of increasing stress at a fixed frequency aredetermined by increasing shear stress in an oscillatory mode accordingto the following method and conditions:

-   1. A “PP20Ti” Sensor (Titanium Parallel Plate, 20 mm diameter) is    used in combination with a 20 mm or larger base Measuring Plate. In    this case, a 20 mm base Measuring Plate is typically used since it    had been found to maintain a consistent contact of product in the    gap between plates throughout the measurement process.-   2. With the temperature controller programmed to maintain a constant    25° C.±0.2° C., the plates are moved into contact to establish the    “zero position” gap, and then moved apart to allow loading of a    sample.-   3. Using a small stainless steel spatula, sample is loaded onto the    base Measuring Plate, and the base Measuring Plate is raised to    achieve a 0.100 mm gap with the PP20Ti Sensor.-   4. With the gap set, the straight edge of a spatula is used to    carefully remove excess material away from the edge of the Sensor    plate without disturbing the Sensor position (straight edge spatula    is placed in contact with base Measuring Plate, and slowly drawn    away in successive strokes around the Sensor to remove the excess    material from around the edge).-   5. Having removed the excess material, a controlled stress sweep is    performed at an oscillation frequency of 1 Hz starting from either    0.10 Pa or 1.00 Pa (depending on the degree of viscosity inherent to    a given sample) using “optimized” repetitions to collect a minimum    of 30 data points in logarithmic steps up to 2000 Pa. Resulting data    for G′, G″ responses as a function of applied stress are viewed    graphically on a log-log scaling basis.-   6. Having completed the sample measurement, the plates are moved    apart to be thoroughly cleaned of material (using an isopropyl    alcohol/water mixture) and dried. The process is repeated again with    additional material as needed in order to obtain an accurate,    reproducible set of results for each sample (typically at least 2 to    3 times).

EXAMPLES

The following examples illustrate the claimed cosmetic compositions ofthe present invention but are not intended to be limiting thereof:

Example 1

Long-Wearing Lipcolor or Lipgloss Ingredient w/w % Part A IsopropylIsostearate 13.00 Octyl Hydroxystearate 8.50 Castor Oil 5.00 C30-C38Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer¹ 2.00 PVP/Eicosene Copolymer² 2.00Candelilla Wax 3.00 Carnauba Wax 2.00 Ozokerite 4.00 Paraffin 2.40Acetylated Lanolin 6.00 Cetyl Lactate 2.00 Propylparaben 0.10 Part BCastor Oil 17.50 Coloring Agents (pigments) 7.50 Part C Dimethicone, 50cSt 10.00 Phenyltrimethicone³ 15.00¹Performa V ® 1608 Polymer (New Phase Technologies, Inc.)²GANEX ® V-220F (ISP Corporation)³DOW CORNING ® 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Dow Corning Corporation)Example 1 is assembled according to the following procedure:

In a suitably sized vessel for Part B, the coloring agents are graduallyadded into the castor oil while being mixed with a conventional mixeruntil full wetting and/or dispersion has occurred. Further particle sizereduction of the coloring agents in the castor oil is then achievedusing conventional wet grinding or milling technology (e.g., three-rollmill, media mill) on this mixture.

In a separate suitably sized vessel equipped for heating and mixing, allthe ingredients of Part A are combined together with thecompleted/milled Part B mixture. Heat the combined ingredients to about90° C.-95° C., and mix the ingredients sufficiently while maintainingheat on the mixture to ensure all ingredients are melted completely andliquefied together. The temperature of this liquefied mixture is thenreduced to about 80° C.-85° C. while continuing to mix.

The ingredients of Part C are then either combined together with oneanother first to be added as a mixture to the previous ingredients, oradded individually to the previous ingredients. The ingredients of PartC are added in a gradual, controlled rate to the previous ingredientswhile maintaining sufficient heating and mixing to ensure rapid andcomplete dispersion of Part C ingredients throughout the composition.Following complete addition of Part C ingredients, the composition isimmediately poured into a suitable room temperature (or slightlychilled) receiving container (e.g., plastic/glass jar or tube, oraluminum mold), and cooled rapidly and for a sufficient period of timeso as to obtain a solid/semi-solid form.

Examples of Structured Aqueous Polymeric Adhesive Phase

The following examples are representative of a structured aqueouspolymeric adhesive phase prepared by combining a structuring agent withan aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-forming polymer particles of thepresent invention. The structuring agent is gradually added while beingmixed continuously with a conventional mixer until full dispersion andstructuring of this phase has occurred: Exam- Exam- Exam- Exam- ple 2ple 3 ple 4 ple 5 Ingredient w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % Aqueous Dispersionof Polyether- 99.50 95.50 92.00 92.00 Polyurethane (33% Polymer inWater)¹ Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose²  0.50 — — — Allyl MethacrylatesCopolymer³ —  4.50 — — Fumed Silica⁴ — —  8.00 — Sodium MagnesiumSilicate⁵ — — —  8.00¹Polyderm PE-PA (ALZO International, Inc.)²Cekol 30,000 (Noviant, Inc.)³POLYPORE ® E-200 (AMCOL Health & Beauty Solutions, Inc.)⁴Silica Shells (KOBO Products, Inc.)⁵LAPONITE ® XLG(Southern Clay Products, Inc.)

Example 6 and Example 7

Long-Wearing Lipcolor or Lipgloss

Long-wearing lipcolor or lipgloss is prepared using a structured aqueouspolymeric adhesive phase as the film-forming agent within the presentinvention as follows: Example 6 Example 7 Ingredient w/w % w/w % Part AStructured Aqueous Polymeric Adhesive Phase of 15.00 13.00 Example 2Part B Castor Oil 17.50 20.50 Coloring Agents (pigments) 7.50 7.50 PartC Ozokerite 4.50 2.00 Paraffin 2.50 1.25 Polyethylene¹ 2.00 — C30-C38Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA 2.00 — Copolymer Candelilla Wax — 1.25Methylparaben 0.15 0.15 Propylparaben 0.15 0.15 Phenyl Trimethicone andDimethicone/Phenyl 15.00 15.00 Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer²Dimethicone, 50 cSt 5.00 5.00 Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane³ 28.7034.20¹PERFORMALENE ® 400 Polyethylene (New Phase Technologies, a division ofBake Petrolite Corporation)²KSG-18 (Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.)³DOW CORNING ® PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Dow Corning Corporation)

In a suitably sized vessel, the structured aqueous polymeric adhesivephase of Example 2 is prepared. Starting with the aqueous dispersion ofpolyether-polyurethane in the vessel, the sodium carboxymethylcelluloseis gradually added while being mixed continuously with a conventionalmixer until full dispersion and structuring of this phase has occurred.

In a suitably sized vessel for Part B, the coloring agents are graduallyadded into the castor oil while being mixed with a conventional mixeruntil full wetting and/or dispersion has occurred. Further particle sizereduction of the coloring agents in the castor oil is then achievedusing conventional wet grinding or milling technology (e.g., three-rollmill, media mill) on this mixture.

In a separate suitably sized vessel equipped for heating and mixing, allof the ingredients of Part C are combined together. Heat the combinedPart C ingredients to about 85° C.-95° C., and mix the ingredientssufficiently while maintaining heat on the mixture to ensure allingredients are melted completely and liquefied together. Thetemperature of this liquefied mixture is then reduced to about 80°C.-85° C. while continuing to mix.

Part A and Part B are combined together with one another and mixedthoroughly to be added as a mixture to Part C. The combined mixture ofPart A and Part B ingredients is added in a gradual, controlled rate toPart C while maintaining sufficient heating and mixing to ensure rapidand complete dispersion of ingredients throughout the composition.Following complete addition and mixing of ingredients, the compositionis immediately poured into a suitable room temperature (or slightlychilled) receiving container (e.g., plastic/glass jar or tube, oraluminum mold), and cooled rapidly and for a sufficient period of timeso as to obtain a solid/semi-solid form.

All documents cited in the Detailed Description of the Invention are, inrelevant part, incorporated herein by reference; the citation of anydocument is not to be construed as an admission that it is prior artwith respect to the present invention. To the extent that any meaning ordefinition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning ordefinition of the term in a document incorporated herein by reference,the meaning or definition assigned to the term in this document shallgovern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have beenillustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in theart that various other changes and modifications can be made withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereforeintended to cover in the appended claims all such changes andmodifications that are within the scope of this invention.

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (A) a first structured andadhesive film-forming fatty phase comprising: i) one or more lipidiccomponents that are mutually compatible with one another when liquefied;ii) at least one adhesive film-forming agent; and iii) at least onelipophilic structuring agent in an amount effective to retain a secondfatty phase entrapped in said cosmetic composition prior to applicationon mammalian keratinous tissue; and (B) a second fatty phase comprisingat least one non-volatile lipidic component wherein said second fattyphase (B) is incompatible with said first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase (A) and said second fatty phase (B) isentrapped in said composition where upon application of said compositionto mammalian keratinous tissue, said second fatty phase (B) readilyseparates from said composition to form a barrier layer over said firststructured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase (A) and wherein saidcomposition is substantially free of surfactants such that separation ofsaid second fatty phase (B) from said composition is not preventedfollowing application of said composition.
 2. The cosmetic compositionof claim 1 wherein the first structured and adhesive film-forming fattyphase (A) is from about 30% to about 95% by weight of the composition.3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the lipidic component ofthe first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase (A) is fromabout 10% to about 98.5% by weight of the first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase (A).
 4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1wherein the lipidic component of the first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase (A) is selected from the group consisting ofpolar liquids, non-polar liquids, volatile liquids, non-volatileliquids, and mixtures thereof.
 5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4wherein the lipidic component is selected from the group consisting ofvolatile liquids and mixtures thereof.
 6. The cosmetic composition ofclaim 5 wherein the lipidic component comprises, by weight of thelipidic component, less than about 50% of a volatile liquid.
 7. Thecosmetic composition of claim 4 wherein the lipidic component isselected from the group consisting of non-volatile liquids and mixturesthereof.
 8. The cosmetic composition of claim 7 wherein the lipidiccomponent comprises, by weight of the lipidic component, more than about50% of a non-volatile liquid.
 9. The cosmetic composition of claim 7wherein the non-volatile liquid has a refractive index at 20° C. of atleast about 1.450.
 10. The cosmetic composition of claim 9 wherein thenon-volatile liquid is at least about 10% by weight of the lipidiccomponent,.
 11. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the adhesivefilm-forming agent is from about 1% to about 60% by weight of the firststructured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase (A).
 12. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 11 wherein the adhesive film-forming agent isselected from the group consisting of lipo-solubles, lipo-dispersibles,hydro-solubles, hydro-dispersibles, and mixtures thereof.
 13. Thecosmetic composition of claim 12 wherein the adhesive film-forming agentis lipodispersible.
 14. The cosmetic composition of claim 12 wherein theadhesive film-forming agent is hydro-dispersible.
 15. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 14 wherein the hydro-dispersible adhesivefilm-forming agent is a structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phasecomprising: a. at least one aqueous dispersion of adhesive film-formingpolymer particles; and b. at least one structuring agent in an amounteffective to viscoelastically thicken, but not solidify, the structuredaqueous polymeric adhesive phase.
 16. The cosmetic composition of claim15 wherein the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase is from atleast about 1% to about 60%, by weight of the first structured andadhesive film-forming fatty phase (A).
 17. The cosmetic composition ofclaim 15 wherein the structured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase has aviscosity from about 2 Pa-s to about 60 Pa-s at low shear rates and fromabout 0.5 Pa-s to about 5 Pa-s at high shear rates.
 18. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 15 wherein the structured aqueous polymericadhesive phase has an Elastic Modulus (G′) from about 5 Pa to about 100Pa, and a Viscous Modulus (G″) from about 15 Pa to about 300 Pa in theLinear Viscoelastic Region at 25° C. and 1 Hz fixed oscillationfrequency.
 19. The cosmetic composition of claim 18 wherein thestructured aqueous polymeric adhesive phase has a ratio of G″/G′ (tan δ)from about 1.5 to about 5.5 in the Linear Viscoelastic Region at 25° C.and 1 Hz fixed oscillation frequency.
 20. The cosmetic composition ofclaim 1 wherein the first structured and adhesive film-forming fattyphase (A) comprises, by weight of the first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase, from about 0.50% to about 60% of a lipophilicstructuring agent.
 21. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein thecomposition comprises, by weight of the composition, from at least about5% to about 70% the second fatty phase (B).
 22. The cosmetic compositionof claim 1 wherein the second fatty phase (B) has a viscosity of fromabout 1 cSt to about 5,000 cSt.
 23. The cosmetic composition of claim 1wherein the second fatty phase (B) further comprises volatile lipidiccomponents, non-volatile lipidic components and mixtures thereof. 24.The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the non-volatile lipidiccomponent of the second fatty phase (B) has a refractive index at 20° C.of at least about 1.450.
 25. The cosmetic composition of claim 24wherein the non-volatile lipidic component is at least about 10% byweight of the lipidic component of the second fatty phase (B).
 26. Thecosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the surface tension of thesecond fatty phase (B) is less than about 35 dynes/cm.
 27. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 1 further comprising one or more of coloringagents, fillers/bulking agents, active agents, preservatives,fragrances, flavor oils, and mixtures thereof.
 28. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 1 wherein the first structured and adhesivefilm-forming fatty phase (A) and the second fatty phase (B) are combinedand homogeneously blended into a single composite composition thatremains a stable composite composition over time.
 29. A method ofproviding long-lasting color and long-lasting shine simultaneously tomammalian keratinous tissue comprising the step of applying to saidmammalian keratinous tissue a feel and shine enhancing barrier layerover a long-lasting color layer from a single cosmetic compositioncomprising: (A) a first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phasecomprising: i. one or more lipidic components that are mutuallycompatible with one another when liquefied; ii. at least one adhesivefilm-forming agent; and iii. at least one lipophilic structuring agentin an amount effective to retain a second fatty phase entrapped in saidcosmetic composition prior to application on mammalian keratinoustissue; (B) a second fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatilelipidic component wherein said second fatty phase (B) is incompatiblewith said first structured and adhesive film-forming fatty phase (A) andsaid second fatty phase (B) is entrapped in said composition where uponapplication of said composition to mammalian keratinous tissue, saidsecond fatty phase (B) readily separates from said composition to form abarrier layer over said first structured and adhesive film-forming fattyphase (A) and wherein said composition is substantially free ofsurfactants such that separation of said second fatty phase (B) fromsaid composition is not prevented following application of saidcomposition; and (C) at least one coloring agent.
 30. The method ofclaim 29 wherein at least about 10% by weight of the lipidic componentof the second fatty phase (B) is selected from the group consisting of anon-volatile liquid and mixtures thereof having a refractive index at20° C of at least about 1.450.